History

The vol-au-vent (literally 'windblown') was popularised by Antonin Carême in early 19th-century Paris but adopted across Belgian brasseries. The Antwerp version uses chicken, mushrooms and meatballs in a sherry-spiked velouté inside a tall puff-pastry shell. Brown cafes from Elfde Gebod to Den Engel serve it on Sunday lunch; brasseries like Mampoko and Bistrot Benoit run it year-round.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 1 hr 15 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 4 large puff-pastry vol-au-vent shells
  • 500g chicken breast, diced
  • 200g chestnut mushrooms, sliced
  • 200g small veal meatballs (commercially made works)
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 50g butter
  • 50g plain flour
  • 500ml chicken stock
  • 200ml double cream
  • 50ml dry sherry
  • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
  • 1 lemon, juiced
  • Salt, white pepper, parsley

Method

  1. Warm the vol-au-vent shells in a 175C oven for 5 minutes. Remove the lids and keep warm.
  2. Soften the onion in butter for 5 minutes.
  3. Add the chicken and mushrooms. Cook for 8 minutes until chicken is golden.
  4. Sprinkle in the flour, cook for 2 minutes.
  5. Pour in the stock, whisking. Bring to a simmer and thicken over 5 minutes.
  6. Stir in the sherry, mustard, cream and meatballs. Simmer gently for 8 minutes.
  7. Finish with lemon juice and parsley. Season with salt and white pepper.
  8. Spoon generously into the vol-au-vent shells. Cap with the pastry lid. Serve with frites.

Tip from the editors. If small veal meatballs are not available, roll your own from 200g minced veal with breadcrumbs, egg and nutmeg. Simmer in the stock first.

Where to eat vol-au-vent

Vol-au-vent in Antwerp

Bistrot Benoit ★ 4.3

Franco-belgian Bistro€€€historisch-centrum

Bistrot Benoit on Zirkstraat is a modern Franco-Belgian bistro on a quiet square at the edge of the old centre. Located in Historisch Centrum.

Signature: Vol-au-vent, French onion soup, Menu Benoit

Order: The three-course Menu Benoit at 57.5 euros; vol-au-vent and onion soup show the kitchen's classical side.

Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Friday and Saturday dinner is Menu Benoit only; book a weeknight for a la carte.

Zirkstraat 23, 2000 Antwerp

Mampoko ★ 4.0

BrunchBrasserie breakfast and brunch€€€12 to €25het-zuidDaily 08:30-22:00Reserve weekends

Mampoko in Antwerp on Amerikalei runs all-day brasserie service that starts with breakfast at 08:30 and rolls through brunch and lunch. Located in Het Zuid.

Order: Mampoko breakfast with eggs and Belgian charcuterie

Tip: The corner terrace opens with the weather. Reserve for Saturday brunch.

Amerikalei 8, 2000 Antwerp

Den Engel ★ 4.2

Belgian€€historisch-centrumUntil Mon-Fri until 01:00, Sat-Sun to 03:00

Den Engel on Grote Markt 3 stays open until 01:00 weekdays and 03:00 weekends. The brown cafe has anchored the corner since 1903 in a 14th-century building.

Try: Brown-cafe nibbles and Belgian beer

Tip: Weekend last orders around 02:30. The terrace fills before the bar.

Grote Markt 3, 2000 Antwerp

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Vol-au-vent in Brussels

Brasserie Ploegmans ★ 4.1

Belgian Brasserie€€marollesTue-Thu 12:00-14:15, 19:00-21:45, Fri-Sat 12:00-14:15, 19:00-22:15, Sun 12:00-14:15, Mon closed

Brasserie Ploegmans in Brussels' Marolles is the wood-panelled local that runs Belgian standards: meatballs, shrimp croquettes, choucroute garnie.

Signature: Carbonnade flamande, Shrimp croquettes

Order: Carbonnade flamande with frites, and a Westvleteren 12 if it is on the board.

Tip: Closed Monday. Book ahead for Sunday lunch when the Jeu de Balle flea market is in full swing.

Rue Haute 148, 1000 Brussels

Aux Armes de Bruxelles ★ 4.2

Belgian€€Tue-Sun 12:00-22:30Until Daily 22:30

Aux Armes de Bruxelles in Brussels keeps the kitchen open until 22:30 every night. At Rue des Bouchers 13. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.

Try: Waterzooi and croquettes

Rue des Bouchers 13, 1000 Brussels

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