Vol-au-vent
Photo: Ernie Murphy · Public domain

History

The vol-au-vent (literally 'windblown') was popularised by Antonin Carême in early 19th-century Paris but adopted across Belgian brasseries. The Antwerp version uses chicken, mushrooms and meatballs in a sherry-spiked velouté inside a tall puff-pastry shell. Brown cafes from Elfde Gebod to Den Engel serve it on Sunday lunch; brasseries like Mampoko and Bistrot Benoit run it year-round.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 1 hr 15 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 4 large puff-pastry vol-au-vent shells
  • 500g chicken breast, diced
  • 200g chestnut mushrooms, sliced
  • 200g small veal meatballs (commercially made works)
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 50g butter
  • 50g plain flour
  • 500ml chicken stock
  • 200ml double cream
  • 50ml dry sherry
  • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
  • 1 lemon, juiced
  • Salt, white pepper, parsley

Method

  1. Warm the vol-au-vent shells in a 175C oven for 5 minutes. Remove the lids and keep warm.
  2. Soften the onion in butter for 5 minutes.
  3. Add the chicken and mushrooms. Cook for 8 minutes until chicken is golden.
  4. Sprinkle in the flour, cook for 2 minutes.
  5. Pour in the stock, whisking. Bring to a simmer and thicken over 5 minutes.
  6. Stir in the sherry, mustard, cream and meatballs. Simmer gently for 8 minutes.
  7. Finish with lemon juice and parsley. Season with salt and white pepper.
  8. Spoon generously into the vol-au-vent shells. Cap with the pastry lid. Serve with frites.

Tip from the editors. If small veal meatballs are not available, roll your own from 200g minced veal with breadcrumbs, egg and nutmeg. Simmer in the stock first.

Where to eat vol-au-vent

Vol-au-vent in Antwerp

Bistrot Benoit ★ 4.3

€€€ Franco-belgian BistroHistorisch Centrum

Bistrot Benoit on Zirkstraat is a modern Franco-Belgian bistro on a quiet square at the edge of the old centre. Located in Historisch Centrum.

OrderThe three-course Menu Benoit at 57.5 euros; vol-au-vent and onion soup show the kitchen's classical side.

TipClosed Sunday and Monday. Friday and Saturday dinner is Menu Benoit only; book a weeknight for a la carte.

Mampoko ★ 4.0

€€ €12 to €25Belgian BrasserieBrasserie breakfast and brunchHet Zuid

Mampoko in Antwerp on Amerikalei runs all-day brasserie service that starts with breakfast at 08:30 and rolls through brunch and lunch. Located in Het Zuid.

OrderMampoko breakfast with eggs and Belgian charcuterie

TipThe corner terrace opens with the weather. Reserve for Saturday brunch.

Den Engel ★ 4.2

€€ BelgianHistorisch CentrumUntil Mon-Fri until 01:00, Sat-Sun to 03:00

Den Engel on Grote Markt 3 stays open until 01:00 weekdays and 03:00 weekends. The brown cafe has anchored the corner since 1903 in a 14th-century building.

TryBrown-cafe nibbles and Belgian beer

TipWeekend last orders around 02:30. The terrace fills before the bar.

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Vol-au-vent in Brussels

Aux Armes de Bruxelles ★ 4.2

€€ Belgian BrasserieSainte Catherine

Aux Armes de Bruxelles, at Rue des Bouchers 13, has kept the same rooms and recipes since 1921, with classics such as vol-au-vent and Flemish beef stew.

OrderFlemish beef stew, vol-au-vent or shrimp croquettes, classics that have been on the menu for years.

TipEvery 6 weeks the restaurant introduces new seasonal suggestions, and its cocktails change with the seasons.

Au Vieux Saint Martin ★ 4.3

€€€ BelgianUntil Daily 23:30

Au Vieux Saint Martin has been a Brussels landmark on Place du Grand Sablon since 1968; the Niels family's ancestor invented the Filet Américain in 1924.

OrderThe Filet Américain, a recipe created by Joseph Niels in 1924.

TipThe restaurant takes no reservations, so walk in any day; the kitchen runs non-stop from noon to 23h and the last order is at 23h.

Chez Leon ★ 4.0

Belgian BrasserieSainte Catherine

Chez Leon has run on Rue des Bouchers 18 since 1893, when Léon Vanlancker opened his Friture Léon, and its menu features Jumbo Zeeland mussels.

OrderJumbo Zeeland mussels, plumper and more generous, in a generous pot with crispy fries.

TipGroup bookings and business meals are taken, and the menu can be downloaded as a PDF before you go.

Les Brigittines ★ 4.3

Belgian BistroMarolles

Les Brigittines is a restaurant at 5 Place de la Chapelle in Brussels, run by master cook Dirk Myny, with a carte and an evening menu, Monday to Friday.

SignatureCarbonnade flamande, Pied de cochon

TipClosed on Saturday, Sunday and public holidays; the restaurant is open Monday to Friday and reservations are taken on 02 512 68 91.

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