Tufahija is the Bosnian Ottoman dessert of an apple poached in sugar syrup, cored and stuffed with walnut paste, and served with whipped cream and a glass of cold water.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
Tufahija (from Turkish 'tuffahiye', from the Arabic 'tuffah' meaning apple) arrived through Ottoman court cuisine and adapted to Bosnian highland apples and walnuts. Slasticarna Egipat on Ferhadija and Inat Kuca both work the canonical Sarajevo version, with the apple poached gently in lemon-sugar syrup and the walnut filling whipped with butter and a hint of cinnamon as the Sarajevo signature finish.
Common allergens: Dairy, Nuts
Tip from the editors. Use a melon baller to core the apples cleanly without breaking the bottom.
Slasticarna Egipat on Ferhadija is the Sarajevo Bosnian sweet counter open since 1949, with baklava, tufahija, hurmasice and tulumbe by the piece.
Tip: Pair a Bosnian coffee with tufahija (poached apple with walnut and cream) for the full sit.
Worth the queue: Baklava and tufahija stuffed apple
Slasticarna Ramis on Saraci is the historic Bosnian sweet shop in Sarajevo's Bascarsija, pulling walnut baklava, hurmasice and rose-water tulumbe daily.
Tip: Counter sale; take to Sebilj square and watch the pigeons with a Bosnian coffee.
Worth the queue: Walnut baklava
Inat Kuca in Kovaci is the Sarajevo Spite House, an Ottoman house moved across the Miljacka in 1895 and now a Bosnian restaurant for sahan and lonac.
Tip: Reserve a riverside terrace table for dinner; ask for sarajevski sahan to taste five Bosnian dishes in one tray.
Dveri off Saraci in Bascarsija is the Sarajevo Bosnian institution behind a wood-shuttered facade, with a flowered courtyard and hearty lonac at every table.
Tip: Reservations are essential; Dveri is cash only and the rear courtyard tables are the ones to ask for in summer.
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