Tortilla del Sacromonte is a Granadina omelette of eggs cooked with brain, sweetbreads, lamb testicles and peas, named for the gypsy quarter that invented it.
Where to eat it: 5 restaurants across 1 city.
Tortilla del Sacromonte takes its name from the gitano quarter above the Darro where it was created in the early 20th century, a thrifty dish using offal cuts the wealthier Centro restaurants discarded. The dish became canonical at Los Manueles, founded in 1917 on Calle Reyes Catolicos, and at Chikito, which sits on the site of the Cafe Alameda where Lorca and Manuel de Falla discussed the dish in the 1920s. Modern restaurants run a vegetable version for visitors who balk at the offal but the original still moves in every traditional Granadina kitchen, especially during San Cecilio in February.
Common allergens: Egg
Tip from the editors. Substitute mushrooms and artichokes for the offal if brain and sweetbreads are not available.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Los Manueles in Granada is the 1917 tortilla del Sacromonte specialist now in a 500-square-metre Reyes Catolicos flagship, with continuous service all day.
Signature: Tortilla del Sacromonte, Croquetas de jamon, Habas con jamon
Tip: Croquetas are the bar order; the Sacromonte tortilla with offal is the historic plate but ask for the vegetable version if entrails are not your speed.
Chikito in Granada sits where Cafe Alameda hosted Lorca and Manuel de Fallas Rinconcillo circle in the 1920s; Jose Carlos Exposito runs the kitchen.
Tip: Closed Wednesdays; the front bar pours free tapas at lunchtime if you do not want to commit to the dining room.
Las Tinajas in Granada is the second-generation Figares institution open since 1971, with clay tinajas overhead and a Vinos de Granada wine cellar.
Tip: Order off the menu del dia at lunch; the same kitchen runs a la carte in the evening at double the price.
Mirador de Morayma in Granada is the Albayzin carmen named for Boabdils wife, with terraced gardens facing the Alhambra and a remojon-bacalao menu.
Tip: Closed Sundays and Mondays; book the carmen terrace not the indoor room from May to October.
Carmela on Calle Colcha in Granada is a tapas-first Mediterranean kitchen with two terraces near Plaza Nueva, winner of the citys tapas contest in 2012.
Signature: Creative croquetas, Tuna tataki, Berenjenas con miel
Tip: The covered terrace stays open year round with heaters; sit on the open one in May for the best people-watching on Calle Colcha.
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