
3 hours
Verona: Tortellini Cooking Class and Lunch with Mamma Ivana
Learn how to cook tortellini from scratch in a homely atmosphere during this cooking class in Verona with Mamma Ivana. Enjoy your creations for lunch...
Tortellini in brodo is Bologna's Christmas-and-Sunday pasta: tiny egg-yolk parcels stuffed with mortadella, prosciutto di Parma, pork loin and Parmigiano Reggiano, served floating in a clear capon and beef brodo.
Where to eat it: 9 restaurants across 2 cities.

The tortellino reached its modern form in the 16th-century kitchens of the Emilian nobility, with Bologna and Modena both claiming origin. The legend places it at a Castelfranco Emilia tavern, where an innkeeper modelled the pasta on a noblewoman's navel. The Confraternita del Tortellino deposited the legal recipe with the Camera di Commercio of Bologna on 7 December 1974: pork loin, prosciutto di Parma, mortadella, Parmigiano Reggiano, egg and nutmeg, hand-folded into 5g parcels and served only in capon brodo. Trattoria Anna Maria, Diana and Tamburini serve the canonical version.
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3 hours
Learn how to cook tortellini from scratch in a homely atmosphere during this cooking class in Verona with Mamma Ivana. Enjoy your creations for lunch...

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Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Dairy
Tip from the editors. The brodo must stay clear; never let it boil hard once the tortellini are in or the parcels burst. Pasta should taste of pasta, not be a filling vehicle.
Trattoria Anna Maria in Bologna near Via Zamboni is the city's most-photographed sfoglia trattoria, run by Anna Maria Monari since 1985 with hand-rolled.
OrderTagliatelle al ragu, tortellini in brodo, lasagne verdi, gnocco fritto.
TipBook a week ahead for dinner. Lunch is calmer and the sfogline still hand-roll pasta in the window between services.
Tamburini in Bologna's Quadrilatero is the 1932-founded salumeria-and-self-service operating from Via Caprarie, with cured-meat counters, a daily-changing.
OrderThe mortadella tagliere, the daily pasta plate, a tigella with squacquerone.
TipThe self-service runs 11:00-22:00 daily; the salumi counter closes at 19:30 and the aperitivo crowd takes over after 18:00.
Trattoria Meloncello (Italian) in Bologna: Book a week ahead for Sunday lunch; the portico walk from Porta Saragozza is the traditional pre-lunch passeggiata.
Why locals goAt the foot of the 666-arch portico up to San Luca; the post-Sunday-walk lunch destination that requires a 25-minute portico stroll first.
TipBook a week ahead for Sunday lunch; the portico walk from Porta Saragozza is the traditional pre-lunch passeggiata.
All'Osteria Bottega is saragozza's 28-seat osteria from daniele minarelli and valeria tonelli; the canonical emilian carte at full editorial precision.
Why locals goSaragozza's 28-seat osteria from Daniele Minarelli and Valeria Tonelli; the canonical Emilian carte at full editorial precision.
TipBook three weeks ahead by phone; the room seats 28 and the lunch service has the easiest tables.
Hosteria Giusti in Modena hides behind the centuries-old Giusti delicatessen on Via Farini, a four or five table lunch room Adriano Morandi opened in 1989.
OrderThe tortellini in capon broth and the fried cotechino with Sorbara zabaione.
TipLunch only, Tuesday to Saturday, with a short seasonal carte; read the booking policy on the Hosteria's site and book well ahead.
L'Erba del Re in Modena is Luca Marchini's one Michelin star dining room on Via Castelmaraldo, a nine table restaurant built on historic Emilian recipes.
OrderThe tortellini in capon broth and the Modena style tagliatelle ragu.
TipThe tasting menu leans on historic Emilian dishes while a second carte covers the chef's newer plates; book ahead for dinner.
Trattoria Aldina in Modena runs as a no reservations canteen above the Mercato Albinelli, a lunch only table for tagliatelle since the 1970s.
OrderThe tagliatelle al ragu, made with pasta hand rolled that same morning.
TipLunch only, no bookings and a shared single table; arrive before 12:15 for a seat.
Zemian Piccola Osteria hides on a quiet Modena back street off Via Fonte d'Abisso, easy to miss despite its careful Emilian cooking just inside.
Why locals goA handful of tables on a quiet back street off Via Fonte d'Abisso, easy to walk past despite careful Emilian cooking behind the plain door.
TipSeats are few and demand is high; call weeks ahead for a weekend table.
Osteria di Modena Rossi cooks tortellini in broth and fried gnocco opposite the Ducal Palace on Piazza Roma in central Modena, open every day of the week.
OrderTortellini in brodo followed by fried gnocco with cured meats.
TipAsk for a window table looking onto Piazza Roma and the Ducal Palace facade.
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