Suppli al telefono
Photo: Krista · CC BY 2.0

History

The suppli emerged in Rome's working-class trattorias and friggitorie in the early 20th century, with the namesake al telefono (on the telephone) attributed to the stringy mozzarella centre that resembles a telephone wire when the suppli is broken open. The dish is the Roman parallel to the Sicilian arancino but smaller (palm-sized), cylindrical, and built on a tomato-flavoured risotto base. Roman pizzeria culture made suppli the standard antipasto and street snack: every Roman pizzeria has them. Modern variations from Supplizio include cacio e pepe, amatriciana and mortadella. The classic three-bite suppli at any pizzeria runs €2 to €3 and is hand-eaten standing.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 12Hands-on 45 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 300g arborio rice
  • 100ml tomato passata, plus 200ml total for the sauce
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 1L hot vegetable or chicken stock
  • 150g mozzarella, cut into small cubes
  • 60g grated pecorino romano
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 200g fine breadcrumbs
  • 1L sunflower oil for frying
  • 30g butter
  • Sea salt, black pepper

Method

  1. Soften the onion in the butter over medium heat. Add the rice, toast for 1 minute.
  2. Add 100ml of passata and stir until absorbed. Add the hot stock a ladle at a time, stirring constantly, until the rice is al dente (about 18 minutes).
  3. Stir in the pecorino, season with salt and pepper, and spread the risotto on a tray to cool completely.
  4. Form palm-sized cylinders (about 60g each) around a cube of mozzarella, pressing to seal.
  5. Dip each in beaten egg, then roll in breadcrumbs. Repeat for a thicker coat if you like.
  6. Heat the oil to 175°C. Fry the suppli in batches for 3 to 4 minutes until deep golden.
  7. Drain on paper, season with salt and serve immediately while the cheese is still molten.

Tip from the editors. The risotto must be cooled completely before forming; warm risotto falls apart. The double-breading at room temperature is what gives the suppli its crackly shell.

Where to eat suppli al telefono

Suppli al telefono in Rome

Supplizio ★ 4.4

€ ItalianCentro Storico

Arcangelo Dandini's Supplizio in Rome's Centro Storico is the specialist suppli counter at €3 each. Two suppli and a glass of wine runs under €10 for a quick.

TrySuppli al telefono

TipOpen Tue-Sun 12:00-22:00; closed Monday. Cash and card Cash is faster than card.

Directions

I Suppli ★ 4.0

€ ItalianTrastevere

I Suppli in Rome's Trastevere sells suppli, fiori di zucca and potato croquettes by weight from €3 to €8 per portion, with the 19:00 fryer batch the freshest.

TrySuppli, fritti misti

TipCash only. Open 11:00-22:00; standing room only. Mixed fritti box is €8 for two to share.

Directions

Pizzeria Da Remo ★ 4.3

€ Roman PizzaTestaccio

Pizzeria Da Remo in Rome's Testaccio is the classic Roman pizza room with paper-thin crusts, the city's busiest suppli counter and a queue that wraps.

OrderRoman pizza margherita, suppli al telefono, and the bruschetta with anchovies.

TipCash only. No bookings; arrive 19:00 or after 22:00 to skip the queue. Closed Sunday.

Directions

Trapizzino ★ 4.4

€€ ItalianTrastevereUntil Daily until 24:00

Stefano Callegari's Trapizzino in Rome's Trastevere runs the late-night counter to midnight with the namesake pizza-pocket sandwiches, suppli and Italian.

TryTrapizzino, suppli, beer

TipOpen 12:00-24:00 daily. The pollo alla cacciatora trapizzino and a glass of craft beer is the late-night order.

Directions

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