Spargel is Brandenburg's white asparagus, peeled thick, boiled in salted water with butter and lemon, served with hollandaise, boiled new potatoes and a slice of Schinken. May to June only.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
White asparagus has been grown in Brandenburg's sandy Beelitz soil since the 17th century, when monks at Brandenburg's cloisters cultivated the spears as a Lenten food. Friedrich the Great in the 18th century made Spargel a court delicacy. Beelitz, 40km south of Berlin, became the asparagus capital of Germany in the late 19th century when railway lines connected its farms to Berlin's markets. Today, Beelitz produces 7,000 tonnes of Spargel per season. The Berlin Spargel ritual runs from late April to St John's Day on 24 June (Spargelsilvester), after which all harvesting stops by tradition. Restaurants from Lutter und Wegner to Lokal run a Spargelkarte for these eight weeks only.
Common allergens: Dairy, Egg in hollandaise
Tip from the editors. Peel the asparagus from just below the tip and remove any tough patches; under-peeled white asparagus stays unpleasantly fibrous.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Lutter und Wegner on Berlin's Gendarmenmarkt has cooked traditional Wiener Schnitzel since 1811; the wood-panelled room runs Sunday classics and the long lunch.
Signature: Wiener Schnitzel, Sauerbraten
Order: The Wiener Schnitzel with cucumber-potato salad; the Berlin sauerbraten in winter.
Tip: Sunday lunch from 12:00 is the easier seating than weekday dinner. Book two weeks ahead by phone.
Borchardt on Berlin's Franzoesische Strasse has cooked the city's reference Wiener Schnitzel since 1992; the 1850s dining room runs 200 covers and a political lunch.
Signature: Wiener Schnitzel, Kalbsleber
Order: The Wiener Schnitzel with potato salad; the calf's liver Berlin-style is the long-running second pick.
Tip: Lunch from 12:00 is easier than dinner. Book four weeks ahead by phone.
Lokal on Berlin's Linienstrasse in Mitte cooks a short daily menu of seasonal Brandenburg produce; the Spargel and Rote Gruetze are the calendar anchors each spring and summer.
Signature: Beelitzer Spargel, Rote Gruetze
Order: The Beelitzer Spargel with hollandaise in Spargel season (late April to June); the Rote Gruetze with vanilla cream in summer.
Tip: Short seasonal menu changes frequently. Spargel season runs late April to 24 June only; book a week ahead for that window.
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