Naples' in bianco vongole: spaghetti finished in vongole veraci clam juices and white wine with garlic, chilli, parsley and olive oil, the sauce light, briny and free of tomato.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
Clams have been harvested in the Gulf of Naples and the Pozzuoli coast since the Roman era; the pairing with pasta became codified in Neapolitan cucina di mare in the 19th century. Naples insists on the in bianco version without tomato; Rome's version with tomato is a separate preparation. The canonical Naples rooms for the dish today are La Cantinella on the Lungomare and Mimi alla Ferrovia near the central station.
Common allergens: Gluten, Molluscs
Tip from the editors. Using the pasta cooking water to build the sauce is not optional; the starch is what keeps the olive oil from splitting.
La Cantinella in Naples' Santa Lucia waterfront has run the classic seafood carte since 1971, with the Bay of Naples view, vongole and crudo di mare.
Tip: Closed Sunday. Book three weeks ahead via the website. Bay-view terrace tables go first.
Mimi alla Ferrovia near Naples Central Station has cooked Neapolitan classics since 1943, with linguine all'astice the dish Sophia Loren and city politicians.
Tip: Closed Sunday all day. Book a fortnight ahead via the website for weekends; the lobster pasta runs around 35 euros.
Ristorante Caruso on Via Partenope in Naples sits on the rooftop of the Grand Hotel Vesuvio over Castel dell'Ovo, with a classic seafood carte.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead; rooftop terrace tables face the Castel dell'Ovo. Jacket suggested for the dining room.
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