Spaghetti alle vongole in Naples is made in bianco (without tomato), the pasta finished in the vongole veraci clam juices and white wine with garlic, chilli, flat-leaf parsley and a thread of olive oil, the sauce light and briny.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
Clams have been harvested in the Gulf of Naples and the Pozzuoli coast since the Roman era; the pairing with pasta became codified in Neapolitan cucina di mare in the 19th century. Naples insists on the in bianco version without tomato; Rome's version with tomato is a separate preparation.
Common allergens: Gluten, Molluscs
Tip from the editors. Using the pasta cooking water to build the sauce is not optional; the starch is what keeps the olive oil from splitting.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
La Cantinella in Naples' Santa Lucia waterfront has run the classic seafood carte since 1971, with the Bay of Naples view, vongole and crudo di mare anchoring lunch and dinner.
Tip: Closed Sunday. Book three weeks ahead via the website. Bay-view terrace tables go first.
Mimi alla Ferrovia near Naples Central Station has cooked Neapolitan classics since 1943, with linguine all'astice the dish Sophia Loren and city politicians keep ordering.
Tip: Closed Sunday all day. Book a fortnight ahead via the website for weekends; the lobster pasta runs around 35 euros.
Ristorante Caruso on Via Partenope in Naples sits on the rooftop of the Grand Hotel Vesuvio over Castel dell'Ovo, with a classic seafood carte and the named-table tradition.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead; rooftop terrace tables face the Castel dell'Ovo. Jacket suggested for the dining room.
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