History

Shojin-ryori arrived in Kyoto with the Rinzai Zen sect in the 12th century. The 1191 introduction of powdered green tea by Eisai and the founding of Tenryu-ji in 1339 anchored the cuisine; the form codified the use of seasonal vegetables, dashi (kombu and shiitake), tofu, yuba and sesame as a substitute for animal proteins. Today Shigetsu inside Tenryu-ji and Izusen Daiji-in at Daitoku-ji serve the canonical seven-bowl meals; Ajiro Honten holds the city's longest-running Michelin recognition for the form.

Common allergens: Soy, Wheat, Sesame

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 60 minTotal 2 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • Kombu and dried shiitake for shojin dashi (no katsuobushi)
  • 200g silken tofu, 200g yuba sheets, 100g sesame seeds for sesame tofu
  • Seasonal vegetables: turnip, lotus root, takenoko, kabocha squash
  • Mirin, light soy, sake, rice vinegar
  • Steamed white rice, kelp pickles and toasted sesame to serve

Method

  1. Make a shojin dashi: cold-soak 20g kombu and 8g dried shiitake in 1L water for 4 hours.
  2. For goma-dofu (sesame tofu): grind 100g toasted sesame to a paste, mix with 30g kuzu starch and 400ml shojin dashi, heat-and-stir for 15 minutes until thick, pour into a mould, chill 30 minutes.
  3. Simmer cubed lotus root, takenoko and kabocha in dashi with light soy, mirin and a touch of sugar for 15 minutes.
  4. Make a quick-pickled turnip with rice vinegar, salt and a strip of kombu, set aside for 30 minutes.
  5. Plate the bowls into nested lacquer bowls: sesame tofu in one, simmered vegetables in another, pickles in the smallest.
  6. Serve with steamed rice in a separate bowl and a small clear shojin soup.

Tip from the editors. Shojin-ryori prohibits onion, garlic, leek and chives. Use yuzu skin, ginger and shiso for aroma; never reach for the alliums.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat shojin-ryori

Shojin-ryori in Kyoto

Shigetsu ★ 4.5

Japanese shojin-ryori¥¥¥arashiyama11:00-14:00. Closed Thursdays

Bib Gourmand-listed shojin-ryori inside Tenryu-ji's precinct in Arashiyama. Three-course set lunches eaten facing the temple's Sogen garden.

Signature: Shojin-ryori bento, Yuba, Sesame tofu

Order: Yuki shojin set with the temple's signature sesame tofu

Tip: Reservation required for parties of two or more, at least three days ahead. The ¥500 garden entry is separate.

Izusen Daiji-in ★ 4.4

Japanese shojin-ryori¥¥¥kita-daitokuji11:00-16:00

Daitoku-ji shojin-ryori served in nested vermillion lacquer bowls modelled on a Buddhist begging bowl. Garden-view tatami inside the Daiji-in sub-temple.

Signature: Daitokuji bento, Shojin nesting bowls

Order: Tetsubachi ryori shojin set, served in seven nested bowls

Tip: Lunch only. Cash preferred. Combine with a Daitokuji walking tour.

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