Shepherd's pie
Photo: Abhinaba Basu from Redmond, United States · CC BY 2.0

History

Shepherd's pie (lamb) and cottage pie (beef) both emerged in the late 18th century in northern Britain as a way to repackage Sunday-roast leftovers; cottage pie is the older of the two (1791 in print), shepherd's pie (1854) gained its lamb-specific name when sheep farming dominated certain regions. London adopted both as pub-grub mainstays in the Victorian era; today the lamb version is on most traditional British pub menus across the city. The crisp, fork-scored mash top is the defining textural feature; without it, it's just stew with potato on top.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 35 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 800g lamb mince (15 to 20% fat)
  • 2 medium onions, finely diced
  • 3 carrots, finely diced
  • 3 garlic cloves, minced
  • 150g frozen peas
  • 2 tbsp tomato puree
  • 2 tbsp plain flour
  • 350ml lamb or beef stock
  • 200ml red wine (optional but classic)
  • 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 tbsp Marmite (the secret weapon for depth)
  • 1 tsp dried thyme (or 2 sprigs fresh)
  • 2 bay leaves
  • Salt and black pepper
  • 2 tbsp neutral oil
  • For the mash topping: 1.2kg floury potatoes (Maris Piper or King Edward), peeled and chopped
  • 100g unsalted butter
  • 100ml whole milk
  • 1 large egg yolk
  • 60g grated mature cheddar (optional, contested)

Method

  1. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large heavy pan. Brown the lamb mince in two batches over high heat until well caramelised; transfer to a bowl.
  2. Reduce heat to medium. Soften onions and carrots in the lamb fat for 8 minutes.
  3. Add garlic; cook 1 minute.
  4. Stir in tomato puree and flour; cook 2 minutes (this kills the raw flour taste).
  5. Pour in the red wine (if using) and bubble 2 minutes to deglaze.
  6. Return the lamb. Add stock, Worcestershire, Marmite, thyme and bay. Season generously.
  7. Simmer uncovered 30 minutes until the gravy is thick and glossy.
  8. Stir in peas. Tip into a 25x35cm oven dish. Cool 10 minutes.
  9. Meanwhile, boil potatoes in salted water 18 minutes until a knife slips through. Drain; return to the dry pot over low heat 2 minutes to dry out.
  10. Mash with butter and warm milk to a smooth, fluffy texture. Beat in the egg yolk. Season.
  11. Spread mash over the lamb. Score the surface with a fork in long ridges (this is what scorches and gives the signature top). Scatter cheddar if using.
  12. Bake at 200C (180C fan) for 25 to 30 minutes until deep golden and bubbling at the edges. Rest 10 minutes before serving with mint sauce.

Tip from the editors. The Marmite is non-negotiable; one tablespoon adds the depth that takes the pie from school dinner to pub standard. Yeast extract substitutes work.

Where to eat shepherd's pie

Shepherd's pie in London

Rules ★ 4.0

£££ British gastropubCovent Garden

Britain's oldest restaurant on Maiden Lane in Covent Garden London, opened 1798 by Thomas Rule, runs an estate-game-led menu through grouse.

OrderGame pie in season, then steamed steak and kidney pudding with mash.

TipLunch is a third of dinner's price and just as well-staffed. The upstairs cocktail bar runs to 23:00 most nights.

Directions Book

The Wolseley ★ 4.6

££ £18-35BrunchEuropean brasserie breakfast and brunchMayfair

Chris Corbin and Jeremy King's grand European brasserie on Piccadilly in London, opened 2003, runs the city's most-traditional power-breakfast crowd.

OrderEggs Benedict with smoked salmon, plus a flat white

TipWeekday breakfast at 07:30 is the easy slot. The weekend full English at £24 is the marquee brunch order.

Directions Book

The French House ★ 4.0

££ British gastropubSoho

Neil Borthwick's upstairs dining room above the historic French House pub on Dean Street in Soho London, opened 2017, the city's most-defended phone-free.

Why locals goAn upstairs Soho dining room above a historic pub that bans mobile phones and serves the Modern British canon to a hushed dining room of regulars.

TipNo mobile phones, no music. Tables book one week ahead. The downstairs pub still pours a proper half-pint of bitter for £2.50.

Directions

The Eagle ★ 4.3

££ GastropubClerkenwell

Britain's first gastropub on Farringdon Road in Clerkenwell London, opened 1991 by Mike Belben and David Eyre, still serves Mediterranean-leaning.

OrderThe Bife Ana steak sandwich, on the menu since 1991, and a pint of bitter.

TipWalk-in only. The chalkboard menu rewrites every day at 12:00; the best dishes go by 14:00 on a busy lunch.

Directions

Andrew Edmunds ★ 4.8

££ Modern EuropeanSoho

Andrew Edmunds's candlelit Lexington Street bistro in Soho London, opened 1985 by the print-dealer Edmunds, still the city's preferred Soho dining-room.

Why locals goA candlelit Georgian townhouse bistro hidden between the Soho tourist circuit and Carnaby Street since 1985, established by Londoners and missed by visitors.

TipBar seats at the front are released as walk-ins after 21:30. The handwritten daily menu does not appear online.

Directions

Quality Chop House ★ 4.3

£££ Modern BritishClerkenwell

The 1869 Farringdon Road working-class dining room in Clerkenwell London, restored under Will Lander since 2012, runs daily-changing British cooking.

OrderThe famed confit potato, then mince and potatoes off the daily menu, with a bottle from the shop next door.

TipThe wine shop next door is corkage-free if you buy a bottle there. Lunch takes walk-ins at the counter Tue-Sat.

Directions Book

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