The heirloom long-grain rice that built the Lowcountry's plantation economy. Nutty, floral, with a defined grain that holds its shape under sauce.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
Carolina Gold rice arrived in Charleston harbour in 1685 on a ship from Madagascar, then took root as the cash crop of the Lowcountry plantation system. The variety nearly disappeared after the Civil War as plantation labour collapsed. Glenn Roberts founded Anson Mills in Columbia in 1998 and rebuilt the rice from a handful of saved seeds. Today it grows again on small Lowcountry farms and anchors the rice course at Husk, FIG, and Sean Brock's other projects. The grain is sweeter and more aromatic than commodity rice and forms the base of authentic Hoppin' John and red rice.
Tip from the editors. Source the rice from Anson Mills if you can. The grain pulls in pot liquor differently to long-grain commodity rice; treat the cooking water as half the flavour.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Husk in Charleston opened in 2010 under Sean Brock and rebuilt Southern fine dining on heritage grains and hyper-local produce. Anson Mills rice, Sea Island peas, wood-fired meats.
Order: The cast-iron cornbread, plus whatever the wood grill is running.
Tip: Book on the website. Bar seats walk-in at 17:00 and serve the full menu.
Mike Lata and Jason Stanhope's FIG in Charleston has anchored the city's fine-dining scene since 2003. Both chefs hold James Beard Best Chef Southeast awards.
Order: The fish stew, plus the bone-in pork chop with whatever seasonal sauce is up.
Tip: Book 30 days ahead on Resy at 10:00. Bar seats fill within an hour of opening.
Slightly North of Broad in Charleston has run on East Bay Street since 1993. Frank Lee's reworked shrimp and grits became the canonical restaurant version of the Lowcountry plate.
Signature: Shrimp and grits, Maverick Grits with sausage
Order: The shrimp and grits with stone-ground grits and house kielbasa, on the menu since the 90s.
Tip: Brunch and lunch are easier seats than dinner. Bar seats are walk-in only.
Mike Lata's The Ordinary in Charleston converted a 1927 bank building on King Street into the city's most ambitious raw bar in 2013. Marble counters, mezzanine bar.
Order: Crispy oyster sliders, then the seafood tower for the table.
Tip: Book on Resy in advance. Bar seats are walk-in only and worth the wait.
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