Cervejaria Ramiro ★ 4.7
Cervejaria Ramiro in Lisbon: the canonical late-night seafood hall on Avenida Almirante Reis, last orders 00:30, prego no pao the traditional closer.
Try: Goose barnacles and prego no pao
Whole sardines salted, charcoal-grilled until the skin blackens, served on a thick slice of country bread that catches the dripping oil and juice.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
The sardine has been Lisbon's summer fish since at least the 16th century, but the city-wide grill-out is tied to the festas dos Santos Populares each June, when neighbourhoods set up charcoal pits on every corner for the 12 to 13 June peak of the Santo Antonio celebrations.
Common allergens: Fish
Tip from the editors. Sardines bigger than the palm of your hand are too oily for charcoal. Look for medium ones, around 18cm nose to tail.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Cervejaria Ramiro in Lisbon: the canonical late-night seafood hall on Avenida Almirante Reis, last orders 00:30, prego no pao the traditional closer.
Try: Goose barnacles and prego no pao
Solar dos Presuntos in Restauradores, Lisbon: a family seafood institution open since 1974, famous for cured ham, Minho cuisine and a celebrity wall.
Signature: Arroz de marisco, Roast kid, Bacalhau a Braz
Order: The plate of presunto first, then arroz de marisco for two.
Cervejaria Pinoquio on Lisbon's Praca dos Restauradores: a no-fuss Portuguese seafood room serving from morning to late night, clams and arroz de marisco.
Signature: Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato, Arroz de marisco, Tiger prawns
Order: Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato, clams in garlic and coriander.
More cities are in research. Want sardinhas assadas covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.