History

The sardine has been Lisbon's summer fish since at least the 16th century, but the city-wide grill-out is tied to the festas dos Santos Populares each June, when neighbourhoods set up charcoal pits on every corner for the 12 to 13 June peak of the Santo Antonio celebrations.

Common allergens: Fish

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 15 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 12 large fresh sardines, gutted but whole
  • Flaky sea salt
  • Olive oil
  • Country bread, thick slices
  • Lemon wedges and a green salad of bell pepper and onion

Method

  1. Pat the sardines dry, sprinkle generously with sea salt, rest 20 minutes.
  2. Light a charcoal grill and let it burn down to white-hot coals with no flame.
  3. Lay the sardines straight on the grate, skin side down. Don't turn for 3 minutes.
  4. Flip once, grill another 2 minutes. The skin should blister and char.
  5. Slide each sardine onto a thick slice of bread. The bread catches the juice and oil.
  6. Serve with lemon wedges and a salad of grilled green pepper, sliced onion and parsley.

Tip from the editors. Sardines bigger than the palm of your hand are too oily for charcoal. Look for medium ones, around 18cm nose to tail.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat sardinhas assadas

Sardinhas assadas in Lisbon

Solar dos Presuntos ★ 4.5

Portuguese seafood€€€Restauradores

Solar dos Presuntos in Restauradores, Lisbon: a family seafood institution open since 1974, famous for cured ham, Minho cuisine and a celebrity wall.

Signature: Arroz de marisco, Roast kid, Bacalhau a Braz

Order: The plate of presunto first, then arroz de marisco for two.

Cervejaria Pinoquio ★ 4.2

Portuguese seafood€€€Restauradores

Cervejaria Pinoquio on Lisbon's Praca dos Restauradores: a no-fuss Portuguese seafood room serving from morning to late night, clams and arroz de marisco.

Signature: Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato, Arroz de marisco, Tiger prawns

Order: Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato, clams in garlic and coriander.

More cities are in research. Want sardinhas assadas covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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