History
Ropa vieja arrived in Cuba from Spain's Canary Islands and Castilla-La Mancha in the 17th century, where peasant cooks shredded leftover boiled meat into a stew rather than waste it. The Cuban version codified through the 19th century and became the national dish, particularly identified with Havana. Miami's exile generation brought the recipe wholesale in the 1960s; Versailles in Little Havana, opened 1971, made it the canonical Miami address for ropa vieja, served exactly as it would be on a Havana home table. The dish is now standard at every Cuban restaurant in Miami: Versailles, La Carreta, Sanguich de Miami, and Enriqueta's. The textural distinction is essential; the meat must shred to long fibres, never chunks.
Make it at home
Yield Serves 6Hands-on 45 minTotal 4 hrDifficulty Easy
Ingredients
- 1.5kg beef flank steak or skirt steak (these cuts shred into the canonical long fibres; brisket also works but gives a different texture)
- 2L cold water
- 2 carrots, roughly chopped
- 2 celery stalks, roughly chopped
- 1 large onion, halved (skin on)
- 2 bay leaves
- 10 black peppercorns
- 2 tsp sea salt
- For the sofrito and braise: 4 tbsp olive oil, 2 large yellow onions (sliced thin into half-moons), 2 red bell peppers (sliced thin), 1 green bell pepper (sliced thin), 6 garlic cloves (minced), 2 tbsp tomato paste, 1 can (400g) good Italian whole peeled tomatoes (crushed by hand), 250ml dry white wine or dry sherry, 2 tsp ground cumin, 2 tsp dried oregano, 1 tsp smoked paprika (the secret Miami touch), 1/2 tsp cayenne, 100g pimiento-stuffed green olives (sliced; the canonical Cuban garnish), 50g drained capers, sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Garnish: 2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley, 2 tbsp chopped fresh oregano
- To serve: 600g cooked long-grain white rice, 400g Cuban black beans (canned drained or home-cooked), 4 ripe yellow plantains (sliced 2cm thick, fried in oil until caramelised gold)
Method
- Place the flank in a large stockpot with the cold water, carrots, celery, halved onion, bay leaves, peppercorns and 2 tsp sea salt.
- Bring to a low boil, skim the foam carefully, then reduce to a bare simmer. Cover loosely and cook 2 hours until the meat is fork-tender and pulls easily into shreds.
- Lift the beef out into a bowl; cool slightly. Strain and reserve 500ml of the cooking liquid.
- Using two forks (or your fingers when cool enough), shred the meat into long fibrous strands; this is the structural step. The shreds should be 5 to 8cm long, not chunks.
- Heat the olive oil in a wide heavy pan over medium heat. Add the sliced onions and bell peppers; cook 15 minutes until very soft and starting to caramelise.
- Add the garlic, cumin, oregano, smoked paprika and cayenne; cook 90 seconds.
- Stir in the tomato paste and crushed tomatoes; cook 4 minutes.
- Pour in the wine or sherry, reduce 3 minutes.
- Add the shredded beef back to the pan with 400ml of the reserved cooking liquid. Simmer uncovered 30 to 40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and clings to the meat.
- Stir in the sliced olives and drained capers in the last 5 minutes; check seasoning, add salt and pepper to taste.
- Plate a generous mound of white rice on each plate, lay a heap of ropa vieja across the top, garnish with parsley and fresh oregano. Serve with black beans on one side and fried sweet plantains on the other (the Cuban trio of moros y cristianos plus maduros).
Tip from the editors. The cut of beef matters enormously; flank or skirt steak gives the canonical fibrous shred. The 2-hour low simmer is non-negotiable; rushing gives chewy chunks instead of strands. Smoked paprika is the Miami signature; without it the dish reads as generic stew.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.