History

The Dutch developed rijsttafel in colonial-era Indonesia in the 19th century, expanding small-plate selamatan ritual meals into elaborate spreads to display the variety of the archipelago. After Indonesian independence in 1949 and the Indo-Dutch settlement in the Netherlands, Amsterdam restaurants like Indrapura, Sampurna and later Restaurant Blauw codified the form for European diners. Today rijsttafel is the most Amsterdam-specific Indonesian meal you will find in Europe, a format barely served in Indonesia itself.

Common allergens: Peanuts, Shellfish, Soy, Gluten

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 1 hr 30 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • 400g jasmine rice, rinsed
  • 500g beef chuck, cut into 3cm cubes, for rendang
  • 400ml coconut milk and 200ml coconut cream
  • 6 shallots, 4 garlic cloves, 3cm ginger, 3cm galangal, 2 lemongrass stalks, blended to a paste
  • 2 tsp ground coriander, 1 tsp turmeric, 4 kaffir lime leaves
  • 500g chicken thigh, cubed, threaded onto 12 satay skewers
  • 200g raw peanuts, fried then ground with 2 tbsp kecap manis and 1 tsp tamarind paste for sate sauce
  • 300g long beans, 200g bean sprouts, 200g cabbage, blanched separately for gado-gado
  • 2 large red chillies plus 3 bird's eye chillies, pounded with 1 tsp shrimp paste and 1 tbsp lime juice for sambal
  • Vegetable oil, sea salt

Method

  1. For rendang: fry the spice paste in 3 tbsp oil for 5 minutes, add beef and brown for 4 minutes, pour in the coconut milk plus 200ml water and the lime leaves. Simmer uncovered 90 minutes until the sauce thickens to a dark paste clinging to the meat.
  2. Cook the rice with 600ml water and a pinch of salt; bring to a boil, cover and steam on the lowest heat for 12 minutes, then rest off heat 10 minutes.
  3. Grill the chicken satay over high heat 3 minutes per side, basting with a spoonful of coconut cream in the last minute.
  4. Blend the peanuts, kecap manis, tamarind, 1 chopped garlic clove and 250ml hot water into a pourable sate sauce; loosen with more water if needed.
  5. Plate gado-gado: arrange the blanched vegetables on a platter, top with sliced hard-boiled egg and a generous ladle of the same peanut sauce.
  6. Pound the sambal ingredients in a mortar until a wet paste forms; serve in a small dish.
  7. Lay the rice bowl in the centre of the table and arrange every component in small bowls around it. Each diner builds their own plate.

Tip from the editors. The rendang must be cooked down past the wet curry stage until the oil separates and the sauce turns mahogany; pulling it too early gives you a Sumatran curry, not rendang.

Where to eat rijsttafel

Rijsttafel in Amsterdam

Restaurant Blauw ★ 4.7

Indonesian€€€oud-zuidSun-Thu 17:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-22:30

Restaurant Blauw in Amsterdam's Oud-Zuid runs the most consistent rijsttafel in the city, twenty-plus dishes laid across a long table, near Vondelpark.

Signature: Rijsttafel, Rendang, Sambal goreng telor

Order: The full Blauw rijsttafel, twenty-plus small plates with rice and sambals.

Tip: Book a fortnight ahead for weekends. Two seatings a night, the early one is quieter.

Indrapura ★ 4.4

Indonesian€€€centrumDaily 12:00-22:30

Indrapura on Rembrandtplein is the long-running Centrum rijsttafel house, three decades of spiced Sumatran and Javanese plates set out for the table.

Signature: Rijsttafel Indrapura, Udang Gala (lobster), Sate ayam

Order: The full Indrapura rijsttafel, with the Udang Gala lobster as a supplement.

Tip: Open from 17:00 daily; book Rembrandtplein-facing window seats one week ahead.

Warung Spang Makandra ★ 4.4

Surinamesede-pijpMon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-22:00

Warung Spang Makandra has been the De Pijp Surinamese reference since 1978: roti you assemble yourself, saoto soup, almost nothing on the menu over 15 euros.

Signature: Roti kip, Saoto soep, Moksi meti

Order: Roti kip with the dahl and a side of the bean stew.

Tip: Walk-in only. Order at the counter, sit upstairs. A second Spang Makandra branch in Nieuw West takes the overflow.

Sampurna ★ 4.3

Indonesian€€jordaanDaily 12:00-22:00

Sampurna has run an unpretentious rijsttafel for 35-plus years; the Lijnbaansgracht room in the Jordaan is open all day from noon and pours one.

Signature: Rijsttafel Sampurna, Sate ayam, Gado gado

Order: Rijsttafel Sampurna with extra sambal badjak on the side.

Tip: Walk-in friendly at lunch, book for dinner. Open daily from noon.

Mama Makan ★ 4.4

Indonesian€€€plantage-oostDaily 17:30-21:45

Mama Makan inside the Hyatt Regency on Spinozastraat takes Indonesian classics through a contemporary lens: brighter rooms, cleaner plating.

Signature: Mama's Rijsttafel, Rendang, Sambal goreng buncis

Order: Mama's full Rijsttafel, the contemporary read on the classic spread.

Tip: Sunday lunch is the easiest booking. They take large groups, useful at the weekend.

Rijsttafel in Utrecht

Restaurant Blauw ★ 4.4

Indonesian€€€mariaplaats

Indonesian restaurant on the Springweg specialising in rijsttafel, the multi-dish rice table. A Michelin Bib Gourmand venue; rijsttafel also offered vegan.

Signature: Rijsttafel (17 dishes)

Order: The full rijsttafel, also available in a vegan version

More cities are in research. Want rijsttafel covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

Browse all dishes →