History

Pyttipanna means small pieces in pan: the dish codified in working-class Stockholm in the 19th century as the Saturday-Sunday morning use-up of the week's leftovers. The classic combination of potato, onion and any cured meat (kassler ham, frankfurters, leftover roast) with pickled beetroot is the dictionary version. Tradition on Österlånggatan, Pelikan on Blekingegatan and the saluhall counters all run the canonical recipe today.

Common allergens: Egg

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 800g floury potatoes, peeled and cut into 1cm dice
  • 2 large onions, finely diced
  • 400g cooked ham, frankfurters or leftover roast, diced 1cm
  • 60g butter
  • Salt and black pepper
  • 4 large eggs
  • 200g pickled beetroot, drained and chopped
  • Worcestershire sauce to serve

Method

  1. Heat 40g of the butter in a large heavy frying pan. Add the diced potato in a single layer. Fry over medium-high heat 12-15 minutes until golden and tender, stirring every 3 minutes.
  2. Push the potato to the side. Add another 20g butter, fry the onion for 5 minutes until soft and gold.
  3. Stir the meat through the pan. Cook another 5 minutes until everything is hot through and crisping. Season well with salt and black pepper.
  4. In a separate pan, fry the four eggs over a medium heat until the whites are set and yolks still runny.
  5. Pile the hash on warm plates. Top each with a fried egg. Serve the chopped pickled beetroot in a small bowl on the side, plus a bottle of Worcestershire.

Tip from the editors. Boil the potatoes the day before, drain, refrigerate overnight; cold cooked potato cubes hold their shape and crisp better.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat pyttipanna (swedish hash)

Pyttipanna (Swedish hash) in Stockholm

Tradition ★ 4.2

Swedish husmanskost$$gamla-stan

Tradition on Österlånggatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan is a tight Old Town room cooking the Swedish home-canon: pyttipanna, kåldolmar, raggmunk and Toast Skagen.

Signature: Pyttipanna Swedish hash, Toast Skagen with bleak roe

Order: Pyttipanna with pickled beetroot and fried egg; the Thursday ärtsoppa with pancakes is the rule.

Tip: Closed Sunday. Lunch is the better sitting; the kitchen runs the dagens lunch sub-150 kronor.

Pelikan ★ 4.3

Swedish husmanskost$$sodermalm

Pelikan on Blekingegatan in Stockholm's Södermalm has cooked husmanskost in the vaulted 1904 hall since the Pelikan name moved from Gamla Stan; meatballs, herring and snaps.

Signature: Meatballs with cream sauce and lingonberry, Sillbord pickled herring board

Order: The meatball plate with mash, brown sauce, lingonberry and pickled cucumber.

Tip: The smaller dining room is calmer than the big hall. Skip the queue by booking the bar counter online.

Tennstopet ★ 4.2

vasastan

Why locals love it: 1907 journalist's pub on Dalagatan; tourists head to Pelikan but locals know this bar runs later on weeknights with the same husmanskost.

Tip: Open seven days; kitchen until 23:00. Bar until 02:00 on Friday and Saturday.

Sturehof ★ 4.4

Swedish brasserie$$$ostermalm

Sturehof at Stureplan in Stockholm's Östermalm is the 1897 brasserie locals run on; oysters, Toast Skagen, herring boards and a 365-day kitchen until 02:00.

Signature: Skagenröra Toast Skagen with bleak roe, Pickled herring board with snaps

Order: Toast Skagen and a half-dozen oysters at the counter; the snaps tray is the table ritual.

Tip: The bar counter is walk-in until late. The Vita Bar room is the quieter sit-down table.

Den Gyldene Freden ★ 4.3

Swedish classical$$$gamla-stan

Den Gyldene Freden on Österlånggatan in Stockholm's Gamla Stan opened in 1722 and remains the oldest restaurant in continuous operation under the same name in the world.

Signature: Wallenbergare veal patty with mash, Janssons frestelse anchovy potato

Order: Wallenbergare with pea purée, lingonberry and brown butter potatoes.

Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The vaulted cellar is the heritage room; the upstairs table runs quieter.

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