History

Pionono was invented in 1897 by pastry chef Ceferino Isla at Casa Ysla in Santa Fe, 10km west of Granada, to honour Pope Pius IX (Pio Nono in Spanish). The miniature pastry stands no more than 4cm tall: a cinnamon sponge rolled and soaked in syrup, topped with caramelised pastry cream. In 1916 Casa Ysla was named official supplier to King Alfonso XIII. The Isla family still runs the original Santa Fe shop and Granada-city branches; the recipe has been protected for over a century. The pionono is the canonical Granada gift box: a six-pack travels well and the cinnamon sponge keeps for three days at room temperature.

Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield Makes 12 piononosHands-on 45 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • 4 eggs, separated
  • 120g caster sugar
  • 100g plain flour
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 200g caster sugar (for syrup)
  • 200ml water (for syrup)
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 300ml whole milk (for cream)
  • 60g cornflour
  • 2 egg yolks (for cream)
  • 80g caster sugar (for cream)
  • Caster sugar for caramelising

Method

  1. Heat oven to 200C. Line a 30x40cm baking tray with parchment.
  2. Whisk egg yolks with 120g sugar until pale. Sift in flour, ground cinnamon and baking powder. Fold gently.
  3. Whisk egg whites to stiff peaks. Fold into the yolk mix in three additions.
  4. Spread the batter on the tray in a thin even layer. Bake 6-7 minutes until just golden. Cool completely.
  5. For syrup: simmer 200g sugar, 200ml water and cinnamon stick for 5 minutes. Cool.
  6. For cream: whisk milk, cornflour, egg yolks and 80g sugar in a saucepan over low heat until thick. Cool and chill.
  7. Cut the sponge into 4cm strips. Brush with syrup. Roll into tight cylinders 4cm tall.
  8. Pipe the cream on top of each cylinder. Sprinkle with sugar and caramelise with a torch.

Tip from the editors. Casa Ysla guard the exact ratio; if your cream slumps, chill longer before piping.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat pionono de santa fe

Pionono de Santa Fe in Granada

Casa Ysla Piononos ★ 4.5

centro-sagrarioMon-Sun 09:00-21:00Walk-in onlyPionono of Santa Fe, the 1897 Granada original

Casa Ysla Piononos in Granada is the in-city outpost of the 1897 Santa Fe pasteleria, where Ceferino Isla invented the pionono to honour Pope Pius IX.

Tip: Six-pack of piononos travels well; takeaway is the norm and the cafeteria seats are limited.

Worth the queue: Pionono with cinnamon sponge and caramelised cream

Avenida de la Constitucion 3, 18012 Granada

Casa Ysla Piononos Beiro ★ 4.3

beiroMon-Sun 09:00-21:00Walk-in onlyPionono of Santa Fe (second oldest branch)

Casa Ysla Piononos Beiro in Granada is the second-oldest branch of the 1897 Santa Fe pasteleria, next to the Caleta courts on Avenida de la Constitucion.

Tip: Quieter than the Centro branch; the Beiro counter has the largest seasonal pastel selection.

Worth the queue: Pionono with rum syrup and caramelised cream

Avenida de la Constitucion 48, 18012 Granada

Pasteleria Lopez Mezquita ★ 4.5

centro-sagrarioMon-Fri 09:00-14:30, Sat-Sun 10:30-14:30 (closed August)Walk-in onlyHojaldre puff pastries and historic Granadina confiteria

Pasteleria Lopez Mezquita on Reyes Catolicos in Granada has baked hojaldres since 1872, with the Apperley pastel named for English painter George Apperley.

Tip: Closed for the month of August; the front window display rotates by feast day with seasonal specials.

Worth the queue: Apperley pastel and felipes

Calle Reyes Catolicos 39, 18001 Granada

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