History

Picarones descend from Spanish-colonial bunuelos adapted in Lima with native sweet potato and Andean squash, recorded as far back as the 1600s. They were the dessert of the African and indigenous Andean communities of viceregal Lima; the Sunday-evening picarones cart is a Lima tradition unbroken since.

Common allergens: Gluten

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 2 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 300g sweet potato (camote), peeled and chunked
  • 300g zapallo loche or butternut squash, peeled and chunked
  • 350g plain flour
  • 1 tsp dry yeast
  • 60g sugar
  • 1 tsp anise seeds
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 120ml warm cooking water from the squash
  • Vegetable oil for deep-frying
  • 200g chancaca (or dark muscovado), 200ml water, peel of 1 orange, 1 cinnamon stick, 2 cloves (for syrup)

Method

  1. Boil camote and squash with anise seeds 25 minutes until very soft; reserve 120ml cooking water.
  2. Pass cooked vegetables through a ricer or mash smooth. Cool to lukewarm.
  3. Combine yeast, sugar and 120ml warm cooking water; let stand 10 minutes until foamy.
  4. Mix yeast liquid, salt and flour into the squash mash. Knead briefly into a sticky dough. Cover and rest 1.5 hours until doubled.
  5. Make chancaca syrup: simmer all syrup ingredients 20 minutes until thick. Strain.
  6. Heat oil to 180C. Wet hands; shape ring fritters and slip into oil. Fry 60 seconds per side until golden.
  7. Drain on paper. Drizzle generously with warm chancaca syrup and serve immediately.

Tip from the editors. The dough is meant to be sticky; if it's stiff enough to roll, the picarones turn dense. Wet hands let the ring shape form cleanly.

Where to eat picarones

Picarones in Lima

Picarones Mary ★ 4.7

Street food$mirafloresDaily 15:00-23:00Cash only

Picarones Mary at Parque Kennedy in Miraflores Lima is the family picarones cart of 25-plus years, the canonical Lima dessert fry-cake with chancaca syrup.

Try: Picarones with chancaca syrup

Order: A plate of six picarones with chancaca and a chicha morada.

Tip: Opens 15:00; the cart at Parque Kennedy is the original Lima outlet, Surco branch opens 12:30.

Anticucheria El Tio Mario ★ 4.6

Street food$barrancoMon-Fri 17:00-02:00, Sat-Sun 13:00-02:00

El Tio Mario at Jr. Zepita 214 in Barranco is the 1987 anticucho and picarones stand beside the Puente de los Suspiros in Lima, the Sunday classic.

Try: Anticuchos and picarones beside the Puente de los Suspiros

Order: Three anticuchos with choclo and papa, then a plate of picarones with chancaca syrup.

Tip: Sister shop one block away on Av San Martin 99; queue past 20:00 on weekends.

El Bolivariano ★ 4.3

Peruvian$$pueblo-libreMon-Thu 07:30-23:00, Fri-Sat 07:30-01:00, Sun 07:30-17:00

El Bolivariano on Pasaje Santa Rosa in Pueblo Libre Lima is a criolla institution in a republican casona, far quieter than the Miraflores tourist axis.

Why locals love it: A republican casona in mid-city Pueblo Libre, off the Miraflores-Barranco tourist axis, with criolla tradition dating to the 1780s.

Tip: Open from 07:30 for breakfast tamales; Sunday lunch is the family-table service.

More cities are in research. Want picarones covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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