Pesto genovese
Photo: Petar Milošević · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Basil in Genoese pesto is documented only from the 1850s: Emanuele Rossi printed a pesto of garlic and basil in 1852, and Giovanni Battista Ratto's La cuciniera genovese of 1863 gave a version made with Dutch cheese, then common in the trading port. The Consorzio del Pesto Genovese now sets seven ingredients, from Basilico Genovese DOP to Fiore Sardo, and the Pesto World Championship brings mortars to Palazzo Ducale every other spring.

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Common allergens: Milk, Nuts

Make it at home

Yield Dresses 600g of pastaHands-on 20 minTotal 20 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 50g small-leaf basil, ideally Basilico Genovese DOP
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 1 tbsp pine nuts
  • 6 tbsp grated Parmigiano Reggiano
  • 2 tbsp grated Fiore Sardo pecorino
  • Half a glass of Ligurian extra virgin olive oil
  • A few grains of coarse salt

Method

  1. Rinse the basil in cold water and dry the leaves flat on a cloth without crushing them.
  2. In a marble mortar pound the garlic with the coarse salt to a cream, then add the pine nuts and keep grinding.
  3. Add the basil a little at a time, working the wooden pestle round the sides with a rotating motion rather than pressing down, until the leaves release a bright green liquid.
  4. Stir in both cheeses, then trickle in the oil while mixing. Work quickly and at room temperature so the basil does not darken.

Tip from the editors. Never heat pesto: toss it off the flame with trofie, boiled potatoes and green beans, the way Genoese trattorie serve it.

Where to eat pesto genovese

Pesto genovese in Genoa

Trattoria Rosmarino ★ 4.5

€€ TrattoriaDe Ferrari Brignole

Trattoria Rosmarino, a Bib Gourmand trattoria a few steps from Piazza De Ferrari in Genoa, serves Ligurian dishes such as brandacujun and trofie al pesto.

OrderBrandacujun and trofie al pesto, the two dishes Michelin names first.

TipMichelin says booking well ahead is almost always essential; the restaurant's page also lists a WhatsApp number.

Directions

Toe Drue Antica Osteria ★ 4.3

€€ OsteriaPonente

Toe Drue Antica Osteria in Sestri Ponente, Genoa, began as a shipyard workers' osteria in the early 1900s and serves cappon magro, pesto and fried panissa.

OrderCappon magro, home-made pesto, breaded anchovies or the fried panissa, all listed on the site.

TipThe lunch menu is two dishes from the blackboard for €28, cover and water included; it is not valid on public holidays.

Directions

Il Genovese ★ 4.3

€€ TrattoriaDe Ferrari Brignole

Il Genovese on Via Galata in Genoa began in 1912 as a farinotto called Raggio; its fried dishes, pansoti and stoccafisso keep the old sciamadda repertoire.

OrderThe mixed fritti in olive oil, or the pansoti with walnut sauce from the primi list.

TipThe site lists the fried items as frisceü, panissette, latte brusco, gattafin and fried tripe, sold alone or as a mixed plate.

Directions

Le Cicale in Trattoria ★ 4.1

€ TrattoriaFoce

Le Cicale in Trattoria on Via Ruspoli, Genoa, lists trofie al pesto at €12, ravioli al tocco at €13 and desserts at €6 on its menu page, open six days.

OrderTrofie al pesto (€12) or ravioli al tocco (€13), then a €6 creme caramel from the dessert list.

TipSides such as fennel gratin and roast potatoes are €6 each; the kitchen serves until 23:00 from Monday to Saturday.

Directions

Osteria Le Colonne ★ 4.1

€ OsteriaCentro Storico

Osteria Le Colonne in Piazza Invrea, Genoa, lists panissa at €6, brandacujun at €12 and mandilli al pesto at €13.50 on its site, open every day.

OrderPanissa fritta (€6) to start, then the brandacujun (€12) or mandilli al pesto (€13.50).

TipTiramisu is €7 and baccalà alla ligure €16 on the same list; the site adds a WhatsApp number for bookings.

Directions

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