La Chaya Maya ★ 4.4
La Chaya Maya on Santa Lucía in Mérida pours tortillas on a clay comal in the dining room and runs sopa de lima, poc chuc and panuchos seven days a week.
Signature: Sopa de lima, Poc chuc, Papadzules, Cochinita pibil
History
The dish is one of the oldest Yucatecan turkey preparations, named for the 'eastern' (oriental) Yucatán towns of Valladolid and Tizimín, where it originated. The escabeche uses toasted whole spices (allspice, oregano, cumin, cloves) and an acidic citrus stock from Yucatán sour orange, a Mayan technique softened by Spanish contact. The turkey is roasted whole, then served in clay bowls of broth with the escabeche and a stack of charcoal-grilled red onions; sides are pickled habanero, lime wedges and warm corn tortillas. Restaurante Kinich in Izamal and Yerba Buena del Sisal in Mérida run authoritative versions; the dish anchors Valladolid's Sunday market lunch.
Common allergens: Turkey, Gluten
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 1.2 kg turkey thigh and breast, bone in
- 2L chicken or turkey broth
- 2 white onions, sliced
- 8 garlic cloves, whole
- 200 ml sour orange juice
- 1 tbsp whole allspice, toasted
- 1 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted
- 2 tbsp dried Mexican oregano, toasted
- 1 tsp black peppercorns, toasted
- Salt to taste
- Corn tortillas to serve
Method
- Toast all whole spices in a dry pan until fragrant, 90 seconds. Grind in a mortar.
- Char one onion and the garlic on a comal until blackened. This is fundamental to the dish.
- Place turkey, charred onion, garlic, ground spices, sour orange and broth in a heavy pot.
- Simmer covered 1.5 hours until turkey is tender and pulling off the bone.
- Adjust salt. Remove turkey, slice or shred, return to the broth.
- Float fresh sliced onion on top for service.
- Serve each portion with a generous ladle of the spiced broth and warm corn tortillas.
Tip from the editors. The toasted-spice technique is non-negotiable; raw allspice and cumin give a flat dish.
Where to eat pavo en escabeche oriental
Pavo en escabeche oriental in Mérida
La Tradición ★ 4.3
La Tradición on Calle 60 in Mérida runs chef David Cetina's Yucatecan recados, poc chuc and queso relleno from a family kitchen of two decades.
Signature: Poc chuc, Queso relleno, Sopa de lima
Manjar Blanco ★ 4.4
Manjar Blanco on Mérida's Calle 47 corridor near Paseo de Montejo runs cochinita pibil and queso relleno (Netflix Taco Chronicles featured) lunch only.
Signature: Cochinita pibil tacos, Queso relleno negro, Pavo en escabeche
Eladio's Centro ★ 4.0
Eladio's Centro on Calle 59 Mérida runs the Yucatecan free-botanas-with-drinks tradition, with live trova and a sprawling cantina dining room.
Signature: Free botanas with drinks, Sopa de lima, Cochinita pibil
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