History

Patra ni machhi is one of the four canonical Parsi wedding-table dishes (alongside sali boti, dhansak, lagan nu custard). The Parsi community brought the steaming-in-leaf technique from Persia; the green chutney is local Bombay coriander, coconut and chilli. Jimmy Boy still cooks it the wedding-table way.

Common allergens: Fish

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 25 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 4 pomfret fillets (or any white fish), about 200g each
  • Juice of 1 lime
  • Salt to taste
  • 200g fresh coriander leaves
  • 100g grated coconut (fresh or frozen)
  • 4 green chillies
  • 1 inch ginger
  • 4 garlic cloves
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 2 teaspoons sugar
  • 4 large banana leaves, washed and cut into 25cm squares
  • String to tie parcels

Method

  1. Marinate fish fillets with lime juice and salt 10 minutes.
  2. Blend coriander, coconut, chillies, ginger, garlic, cumin, sugar and salt with 4 tablespoons water into a thick paste.
  3. Hold each banana leaf over a flame for 5 seconds to soften.
  4. Place a fish fillet on each leaf, top with a generous coat of green chutney on both sides.
  5. Fold each leaf into a parcel, tie with string.
  6. Steam parcels over rapidly boiling water 12 to 15 minutes until fish is just cooked.
  7. Serve parcels closed; guests open at the table to release the aroma.

Tip from the editors. Keep the leaf parcels small enough that they steam evenly; don't oversauce the fish or the chutney becomes too runny.

Where to eat patra ni machhi

Patra ni machhi in Mumbai

Jimmy Boy ★ 4.2

Parsi$$fortMon-Sat 08:00-23:00; Sun 08:00-16:00, 19:00-23:00

Fort Parsi institution at Vikas Building off Horniman Circle since 1925; only place in Mumbai serving Lagan nu Bhonu wedding meal, Patra ni Macchi, Salliboti.

Why locals love it: Off Horniman Circle in a heritage building, Parsi wedding-thali room with no signage past the entrance; locals book the Sunday thali a week ahead.

Tip: Sunday Parsi wedding thali is the order; book ahead. Cash and card both accepted.

Britannia and Co ★ 4.7

Parsi$$fortMon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat 12:00-22:00, closed Sun

Britannia in Ballard Estate has poured Iranian zereshk berries over mutton pulao since 1923. Lunchtime only weekdays; Saturday opens until 22:00.

Signature: Berry pulao, Sali boti, Caramel custard

Order: Mutton berry pulao with a side of sali boti.

Tip: Cash only; arrive by 13:00 weekdays or the berry pulao runs out. Closed Sunday.

The Bombay Canteen ★ 4.7

Modern Indian$$$lower-parelMon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 19:00-01:30; Sat-Sun 11:00-01:30

Floyd Cardoz, Sameer Seth and Yash Bhanage opened The Bombay Canteen in Kamala Mills in 2015 and reframed regional Indian cooking as a tasting-format menu.

Signature: Eggs kejriwal, Ghee roast chicken seekh, Gulab nut

Order: Eggs kejriwal at brunch, ghee roast chicken seekh at dinner.

Tip: Sunday brunch books out a week ahead; the Canteen Experience tasting runs 3754 rupees.

More cities are in research. Want patra ni machhi covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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