History

Passatelli are an Emilian creation born of thrift: a way to use stale bread and parmesan rind, extruded into broth instead of made into pasta. The dish dates to the 16th century, with documented Bolognese and Romagnolo versions. The dish appears at every traditional Christmas and Easter table in Emilia-Romagna alongside tortellini in brodo, and stays on every Bologna trattoria menu as the colder-season first course. Trattoria Anna Maria and Sfoglia Rina plate the canonical Bolognese version.

Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 4 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • For the broth: 1 small capon (or large free-range hen) around 1.5kg, 500g beef shin, 1 onion halved and charred, 2 carrots, 1 celery stick, 1 small leek, parsley stems, 2 bay leaves, 8 black peppercorns, 4L cold water, salt
  • For the passatelli: 200g freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (24 months minimum)
  • 200g fine dry breadcrumbs (white country bread, dried in a low oven and finely ground)
  • 3 large eggs at room temperature
  • Zest of 1 small lemon
  • Pinch of grated nutmeg
  • Salt and white pepper
  • A passatelli press (or a potato ricer with the 6mm disc)
  • Extra Parmigiano-Reggiano to grate at the table

Method

  1. Place the capon, beef shin, charred onion, carrots, celery, leek, parsley stems, bay leaves and peppercorns in a tall stockpot with 4L cold water and 1 tablespoon salt.
  2. Bring slowly to a low simmer over 30 minutes. Skim the foam off the top for the first 15 minutes.
  3. Simmer at the gentlest blip uncovered for 3 hours. Never let it boil hard.
  4. Strain the broth through a fine sieve; discard the solids (reserve the capon meat for use in sandwiches or salads).
  5. For the passatelli: in a bowl, combine the grated parmesan, breadcrumbs, eggs, lemon zest, nutmeg, salt and white pepper.
  6. Knead by hand 3 minutes until the mixture comes together to a firm, slightly sticky dough. If too dry, add a splash of cold broth; if too wet, add more breadcrumbs.
  7. Rest the dough covered in cling film at room temperature for 30 minutes.
  8. Bring the strained broth to a gentle simmer.
  9. Press the dough through the passatelli press or potato ricer directly over the simmering broth. As the strands emerge (around 5cm long), cut them off into the broth with a knife.
  10. Cook 2 minutes from the moment they float; do not overcook or they fall apart.
  11. Ladle broth and passatelli into wide shallow bowls. Pass extra grated parmesan at the table.

Tip from the editors. The broth quality is everything; a 3-hour capon-and-beef broth is the only correct base.

Where to eat passatelli in brodo

Passatelli in brodo in Bologna

Trattoria Anna Maria ★ 4.6

Italian€€universitaTue-Sun 12:30-15:00, 19:30-23:00; Mon closed

Trattoria Anna Maria in Bologna near Via Zamboni is the city's most-photographed sfoglia trattoria, run by Anna Maria Monari since 1985 with hand-rolled.

Signature: Tagliatelle al ragu, Tortellini in brodo, Lasagne verdi

Order: Tagliatelle al ragu, tortellini in brodo, lasagne verdi, gnocco fritto.

Tip: Book a week ahead for dinner. Lunch is calmer and the sfogline still hand-roll pasta in the window between services.

Via delle Belle Arti 17/A, 40126 Bologna BO Book →

Sfoglia Rina ★ 4.5

Italian€€

Sfoglia Rina is sfoglina counter with hand-rolled pasta sold by weight; the dine-in carte takes walk-ins for the same pasta the restaurant kitchens cook.

Why locals love it: Sfoglina counter with hand-rolled pasta sold by weight; the dine-in carte takes walk-ins for the same pasta the restaurant kitchens cook.

Tip: Walk-in for the dine-in until 14:00; take-away pasta runs from 5 euros per 250g and the queue thins after 11:30.

Via Castiglione 5/B, 40124 Bologna BO

All'Osteria Bottega ★ 4.7

Italian€€

All'Osteria Bottega is saragozza's 28-seat osteria from daniele minarelli and valeria tonelli; the canonical emilian carte at full editorial precision.

Why locals love it: Saragozza's 28-seat osteria from Daniele Minarelli and Valeria Tonelli; the canonical Emilian carte at full editorial precision.

Tip: Book three weeks ahead by phone; the room seats 28 and the lunch service has the easiest tables.

Via Santa Caterina 51, 40123 Bologna BO

Ristorante Diana ★ 4.5

Italian€€€piazza-maggioreTue-Sat 12:15-14:30, 19:15-22:30; Sun 12:15-14:30; Mon closed

Ristorante Diana on Via dell'Indipendenza in Bologna is the 1909-founded room running the canonical Bolognese carte and the famous Sunday carrello dei.

Signature: Tortellini in brodo, Lasagne verdi, Carrello dei bolliti

Order: Tortellini in brodo, lasagne verdi, the carrello dei bolliti on Sunday lunch.

Tip: Book a fortnight ahead for Sunday lunch; the carrello dei bolliti runs only on Sunday and Wednesday lunches.

Via dell'Indipendenza 24, 40121 Bologna BO Book →

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