Huen Phen ★ 4.5
A 50-year Old City institution south of Wat Chedi Luang, serving a full Lanna spread by day and a candlelit antique-crammed dinner room by night.
Signature: Khao soi, Nam prik ong, Gaeng hang lay
A soft, smoky green-chilli dip of roasted long green chillies pounded with charred shallot, garlic and lime, eaten with sticky rice, crackling and steamed vegetables.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
Nam prik is the backbone of the northern meal, a chilli relish eaten with sticky rice and vegetables rather than as a sauce. Nam prik noom uses mild long green chillies roasted over flame until the skins blister, then pounded with charred garlic and shallot, fish sauce and lime into a soft, smoky, spoonable paste. It is almost always served alongside nam prik ong, a tomato-and-pork red version, with a platter of steamed and raw vegetables, crisp pork crackling (khaep moo) and a basket of sticky rice. Together they define the shared, hands-on rhythm of a Lanna table.
Common allergens: Fish, Shellfish
Tip from the editors. Chase the smoky flavour by charring the aromatics hard; a little burnt skin left in the pounding is traditional, not a mistake.
A 50-year Old City institution south of Wat Chedi Luang, serving a full Lanna spread by day and a candlelit antique-crammed dinner room by night.
Signature: Khao soi, Nam prik ong, Gaeng hang lay
A garden Lanna house and longtime Michelin Bib Gourmand, plating northern curries, herb sausage and smoky chili dips under its wooden garden pavilions.
Signature: Gaeng hang lay, Sai ua, Nam prik noom
The teak-and-brick Nimman courtyard where students and tourists queue for a broad northern menu of herb sausage, chili dips and sticky rice.
Signature: Sai ua, Nam prik ong, Grilled pork neck
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