History

The Modern Australian (Mod-Oz) movement emerged in the 1980s with Phillip Searle, Christine Manfield and Tetsuya Wakuda; it took its current native-ingredient form under Peter Gilmore at Quay (closed 2026) and Josh Niland at Saint Peter (Paddington, 2016). The vocabulary now spans Bennelong, Sixpenny, Margaret, Cafe Paci and Ester. Each tasting menu draws on producers who supply nothing else: Hawkesbury oysters, Manjimup truffles, Mulwarra lamb, finger lime from northern NSW.

Common allergens: Various (per menu)

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • Native dukkah for the table: 50g hazelnuts, 1 tbsp coriander seeds, 1 tbsp sesame seeds, 1 tsp wattleseed, 1 tsp lemon myrtle powder, 0.5 tsp native pepperberry, salt
  • First course (oyster): 12 Sydney rock oysters with finger lime pearls
  • Main course (lamb): 800g rack of Mulwarra lamb, native pepperberry crust
  • Crust: 2 tbsp native pepperberry, 1 tsp wattleseed, 1 tbsp Dijon, 50g panko, 2 tbsp olive oil
  • Pan accompaniment: 200g saltbush leaves, blistered in olive oil
  • Dessert: 4 native finger limes, 200g good vanilla ice cream, 50g toasted muntries (native cranberry)

Method

  1. For the dukkah: toast hazelnuts, coriander and sesame in a dry pan until fragrant. Cool, then pulse in a processor with wattleseed, lemon myrtle and pepperberry. Season.
  2. Open the oysters and serve on crushed ice with finger lime pearls.
  3. Heat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius. Pulse the pepperberry, wattleseed, Dijon, panko and olive oil into a paste.
  4. Sear the lamb rack in a hot pan, then spread the native-ingredient crust over the meat side.
  5. Roast for 18-22 minutes for medium-rare (internal 55 degrees Celsius). Rest for 8 minutes.
  6. Blister the saltbush in olive oil for 30 seconds until just wilted.
  7. Slice the rack, sprinkle with dukkah, serve over the saltbush.
  8. For dessert, halve the finger limes, scoop the pearls over the ice cream, scatter with toasted muntries.

Tip from the editors. Source native ingredients from Australian Native Food and Botanicals or Outback Pride; the dukkah keeps in a jar for two weeks and lifts any cheese board.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat modern australian tasting menu

Modern Australian Tasting Menu in Sydney

Saint Peter ★ 4.9

SeafoodChef Josh Niland$$$$A$215paddingtonWed-Sat dinner from 6pm, Thu-Sat lunch from 12pmBook 3 to 6 weeks ahead

Josh Niland's fin-to-tail seafood room in Paddington, Sydney holds three Good Food Guide hats. Dry-aged fish, seafood charcuterie, daily catch boards.

Sixpenny ★ 4.8

Modern AustralianChef Daniel Puskas and Anthony Schifilliti$$$$A$220stanmoreWed-Fri dinner from 6pm, Sat dinner from 6:30pm, Sat-Sun lunch from 12pmBook 4 to 6 weeks ahead

Three-hat Sixpenny in Stanmore, Sydney. Daniel Puskas and Anthony Schifilliti run a seasonal tasting menu inside a 1907 inner-west terrace dining room.

Bennelong ★ 4.7

Modern AustralianChef Peter Gilmore$$$$A$195cbdSun-Thu dinner 5:30pm-8:45pm, Fri-Sat dinner 5:30pm-9:15pm, Fri-Sun lunch from 12pmBook 4 to 8 weeks ahead

Peter Gilmore's two-hat Bennelong under the Opera House sails, Sydney. Native ingredients, harbour views, three-course or counter dining all year.

Margaret ★ 4.7

Modern AustralianChef Neil Perry$$$$Mains A$48-A$95double-bayTue-Sat 12pm-lateBook 3 to 6 weeks ahead

Neil Perry's two-hat Margaret in Double Bay, Sydney. The veteran chef's post-Rockpool flagship runs wood-fired produce and dry-aged steaks daily.

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