Saint Peter ★ 4.9
Josh Niland's fin-to-tail seafood room in Paddington, Sydney holds three Good Food Guide hats. Dry-aged fish, seafood charcuterie, daily catch boards.
Multi-course menu of native and seasonal Australian ingredients: finger lime, wattleseed, kangaroo, saltbush, native pepperberry, Sydney rock oysters.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
The Modern Australian (Mod-Oz) movement emerged in the 1980s with Phillip Searle, Christine Manfield and Tetsuya Wakuda; it took its current native-ingredient form under Peter Gilmore at Quay (closed 2026) and Josh Niland at Saint Peter (Paddington, 2016). The vocabulary now spans Bennelong, Sixpenny, Margaret, Cafe Paci and Ester. Each tasting menu draws on producers who supply nothing else: Hawkesbury oysters, Manjimup truffles, Mulwarra lamb, finger lime from northern NSW.
Common allergens: Various (per menu)
Tip from the editors. Source native ingredients from Australian Native Food and Botanicals or Outback Pride; the dukkah keeps in a jar for two weeks and lifts any cheese board.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Josh Niland's fin-to-tail seafood room in Paddington, Sydney holds three Good Food Guide hats. Dry-aged fish, seafood charcuterie, daily catch boards.
Three-hat Sixpenny in Stanmore, Sydney. Daniel Puskas and Anthony Schifilliti run a seasonal tasting menu inside a 1907 inner-west terrace dining room.
Peter Gilmore's two-hat Bennelong under the Opera House sails, Sydney. Native ingredients, harbour views, three-course or counter dining all year.
Neil Perry's two-hat Margaret in Double Bay, Sydney. The veteran chef's post-Rockpool flagship runs wood-fired produce and dry-aged steaks daily.
More cities are in research. Want modern australian tasting menu covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.