Lawar
Photo: ybs from Jakarta, Indonesia · CC BY 2.0

History

Lawar has roots in ritual food, and Balinese families make it for ceremonies; on Penampahan, the day before Galungan, it is cooked from the pigs and chickens killed that morning, with satay and soup. Groups of men traditionally chop the meat and spices together, a task called mebat. Red lawar has blood mixed in and white lawar has none. Because of its coconut and fat, lawar spoils easily and keeps about half a day, which is why warungs sell it in the morning, beside babi guling or on its own as nasi lawar.

Common allergens: Shellfish

Make it at home

Yield Serves 6Hands-on 45 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g pork belly
  • 200g pork liver
  • 2 cans young green jackfruit, drained, about 500g
  • 1/2 fresh coconut, flesh grated, plus a handful toasted in a dry pan until brown
  • 1 bay leaf and 4 kaffir lime leaves, finely sliced
  • For the base genep: galangal, turmeric, ginger and kencur, about 20g each
  • 2 candlenuts and 2 cloves
  • 1 tsp coriander seeds, 1 tsp sesame seeds, 1/2 tsp black pepper, 1/2 tsp white pepper, 1/2 tsp cumin seeds, 1/2 tsp nutmeg
  • For the sambal embe: 4 shallots, 4 garlic cloves, 5 red chillies, 1 tbsp shrimp paste
  • Vegetable oil and salt

Method

  1. Separate the skin from the pork belly and simmer the skin in water until it is tender enough to slice thinly, testing with the tip of a knife. Cool and slice it thinly.
  2. Chop the pork meat very finely with a cleaver, to the texture of mince. Stir-fry it in a little oil with the bay leaf for a few minutes, add 250ml water and simmer until cooked through.
  3. Grill or griddle the liver until cooked, cool and chop finely.
  4. Simmer the jackfruit for a few minutes, drain, cool and chop finely.
  5. Grind the base genep ingredients to a paste and stir-fry in 2 tbsp oil until fragrant.
  6. Fry the sambal embe ingredients one at a time in oil, shallots first, then garlic, chillies and shrimp paste, and pour the frying oil over them.
  7. Toss the pork, skin, liver, jackfruit and coconut with the base genep, sambal embe, lime leaves and salt, and eat within a few hours with rice.

Tip from the editors. Lawar spoils within about half a day, so make it the day you eat it; a chicken or green bean version uses the same paste.

Where to eat lawar

Lawar in Bali

Warung Men Latri ★ 4.2

$ BalineseDenpasar

Why locals goA simple warung on Jalan Gunung Agung in central Denpasar serving nasi lawar, soto and bakso balung; Bali Post says its lawar tastes authentic and the portions are good.

TipThe menu is nasi lawar, soto and bakso balung; the warung opens at 09:00 and closes at 17:00, a simple stop for lunch.

Babi Guling Dodo (Jalan Abimanyu) ★ 4.0

$ BalineseDenpasar

Babi Guling Dodo serves babi guling plates with lawar, urutan sausage and sate lilit opposite Pasar Satria on Jalan Abimanyu in Denpasar, Bali, until 14:00.

OrderOrder the babi guling lengkap with lawar, urutan sausage, sate lilit and jukut ares soup.

TipThe warung faces Pasar Satria and is a lunch stop that closes at 14:00. A second branch is on Jalan Gatot Subroto Tengah.

Nasi Banjar Mbok Mang ★ 4.0

$ BalineseNusa Dua

Why locals goA pork nasi campur warung in Benoa near the ITDC area, serving lawar, urutan sausage and pork rib broth from 08:00 to 14:00, with plates from about IDR 25,000.

TipThe warung runs from 08:00 to 14:00, so go for breakfast or an early lunch; a full plate starts from about IDR 25,000.

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