History

Kuay jub traces to Teochew Chinese settlers in Yaowarat (Bangkok's Chinatown), where 19th-century street vendors served the pork-and-pepper broth to traders coming off the Chao Phraya. The narrow rolled-noodle form (kuay jub nam sai) became a Bangkok specialty distinct from southern Thai versions. Nai Ek Roll Noodles in Yaowarat (sold from a cart from 1960; permanent shop opened 1989) is the city's reference, with past Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition (2018 and 2019) and continued Michelin Guide listing; Guay Jub Mr Joe runs a kuay jub specialism at Soi Saphan Khu. The dish is a Yaowarat midnight-snack ritual.

Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Soy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 2 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g pork belly, skin on, cut into 4cm cubes
  • 1L pork or chicken stock
  • 500ml water
  • 30g white peppercorns, crushed coarsely
  • 4 garlic cloves, smashed, plus 2 tbsp finely chopped garlic for the fried-garlic oil
  • 5 coriander roots, scrubbed
  • 2 cinnamon sticks
  • 3 star anise
  • 40ml light soy sauce
  • 30ml dark soy sauce
  • 15g rock sugar
  • 200g flat rice noodle sheets (cut into 8cm squares; the squares curl into rolls when boiled)
  • 4 soft-boiled eggs, peeled
  • 100g fried-tofu cubes, optional
  • 60ml neutral oil for fried garlic
  • Coriander, sliced spring onions, chilli vinegar, to serve

Method

  1. Blanch the pork belly in boiling water for 5 minutes; drain and rinse.
  2. Combine stock, water, crushed peppercorns, smashed garlic, coriander roots, cinnamon, star anise, soy sauces and rock sugar in a pot. Bring to a simmer.
  3. Add the pork belly; simmer 90 minutes uncovered until the skin is tender and the broth is deeply peppery. Lift the pork out; cool slightly.
  4. Make the fried-garlic oil: heat the neutral oil over medium-low. Add chopped garlic; cook 3 to 4 minutes, stirring, until pale golden. Strain the garlic out; reserve both oil and garlic.
  5. For maximum crisp, pat the pork belly dry, score the skin, rub with salt, and deep-fry the skin-side down at 180C for 3 minutes until blistered. Slice into thick strips.
  6. Boil the rice noodle squares for 60 seconds; they will curl into rolls. Drain and divide between bowls.
  7. Top each bowl with crispy pork strips, a halved soft-boiled egg, optional fried tofu, and a ladle of hot pepper broth.
  8. Finish with fried garlic, a drizzle of garlic oil, coriander, spring onions and a teaspoon of chilli vinegar.

Tip from the editors. White pepper, not black, is the signature; do not substitute. Crush coarsely just before use so the oils stay bright. Broth mellows once noodles go in.

Where to eat kuay jub

Kuay jub in Bangkok

Nai Ek Roll Noodles ★ 4.6

Chinese฿฿Until 00:00Cash only

Nai Ek in Bangkok's Yaowarat has cooked rolled-rice-noodle kuay jab in peppery pork-offal broth until midnight since 1960, the late-night canonical Chinatown.

Try: Kuay jab Yaowarat in pork broth

Tip: Open 08:00 to midnight daily, cash only. Order with extra crispy pork belly; the pork offal bowl is also the local pick.

442 Soi Yaowarat 9, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100

Guay Jub Mr Joe ★ 4.3

Street food฿Daily 18:00-02:00Cash only

Guay Jub Mr Joe in Bangkok's Yaowarat is the late-night kuay jab cart at the corner of Soi 11, peppery pork-offal broth and rolled rice noodles cooked.

Try: Rolled rice noodles in pork-offal broth (kuay jab)

Tip: Cash only. Stall is on the kerb; eat at the plastic stools opposite. Order with extra crispy pork belly.

Soi Yaowarat 11, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100

Yaowarat night market street stalls ★ 4.7

Street food฿Daily 18:00-02:00 (vendor hours vary)Cash only

Yaowarat Road in Bangkok's Chinatown is the city's most theatrical street-food strip after dark, with grilled seafood, noodle counters and dim sum carts.

Try: Grilled seafood, dim sum, noodle stalls

Tip: Start at Soi Texas (Phadungdao) corner for grilled prawns; Nai Mong Hoi Tod and Lek and Rut are the canonical seafood stalls.

Yaowarat Road, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100

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