Knafeh
Photo: elif ayse · CC BY 2.0

History

Accounts trace knafeh to Fatimid Egypt or the Umayyad court in Damascus, where legend says it was invented to satisfy caliphs during Ramadan, and a 13th-century Damascus market inspector already monitored its quality that month. Historian Mary Isin notes the cheese-filled version does not appear in records before the 19th century; an 1885 Beirut cookbook gives four recipes. The Palestinian city of Nablus became linked with knafeh filled with firm white Nabulsi cheese from at least 1923, remaining the dish's defining style. Abulafia's Allenby Street branch bakes its own tray of knafeh around the clock alongside sambousak and bourekas at the Jaffa bakery's round-the-clock counter.

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Common allergens: Dairy, Gluten, Tree nuts

Make it at home

Yield Serves 8Hands-on 25 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 400g shredded kataifi pastry, thawed if frozen
  • 150g unsalted butter or ghee, melted
  • 500g Akkawi or Nabulsi cheese, desalted overnight in fresh water and shredded
  • 300g sugar
  • 300ml water
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice
  • 1 tbsp rosewater or orange blossom water
  • Crushed pistachios, to finish

Method

  1. Make the syrup first: simmer sugar, water and lemon juice for 8 minutes until slightly thickened, then stir in the rosewater. Cool completely.
  2. Preheat the oven to 190C. Toss the kataifi with the melted butter until every strand is coated.
  3. Press half the kataifi into the base of a greased round tray. Scatter the desalted, shredded cheese evenly over the top.
  4. Cover with the remaining kataifi, pressing down firmly so the layers hold together as one disc.
  5. Bake 25 to 30 minutes until deep golden. Pour the cooled syrup over the hot pastry immediately, then scatter with crushed pistachios and serve warm.

Tip from the editors. Pour cold syrup onto hot pastry, never the reverse; hot syrup on hot pastry turns the kataifi soggy instead of crisp.

Where to eat knafeh

Knafeh in Dubai

Al Safadi Restaurant ★ 4.2

$$ LebaneseSheikh Zayed Road

Al Safadi Restaurant grills Lebanese mezze and steaks a short walk from DIFC in Dubai, open from 09:30 for breakfast through to a late dinner at 00:30.

OrderMixed grill platter with hummus and a plate of warm knafeh to close.

TipBreakfast runs from 09:30 and uses the same grill list as dinner.

Aroos Damascus ★ 4.2

$ SyrianDeira

Aroos Damascus plates Syrian kebbeh, grills and manakish on Al Jaziera Street in Deira, serving all day and late into the evening, inside or on the patio.

OrderMixed grill platter with kebbeh, shish tawook and a bowl of fattoush to share.

TipService runs from breakfast until well past midnight, and the patio tables are the pick once evenings cool.

Karam Beirut ★ 3.9

$$ LebaneseDowntown Dubai

Karam Beirut bakes manoushe and rolls shawarma on the lower ground floor of The Dubai Mall, a Lebanese street food counter dressed for Downtown Dubai.

OrderZaatar manoushe with a side of shawarma and a glass of jallab.

TipThe branch sits on the lower ground floor, entered from the Fashion Avenue car park, P1 and P2.

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Knafeh in Tel Aviv

Abulafia ★ 4.4

$ Middle EasternLev Hair

Abulafia's Allenby Street branch in Tel Aviv bakes the Jaffa bakery's knafeh, sambousak and bourekas around the clock, every single day of the week.

TryKnafeh, sambousak and bourekas

TipSambousak with different fillings, knafeh and malawach all come off the same trays, so point at whatever is freshest.

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