History

Kavourmas is one of the oldest preserved meat traditions in the Macedonian highlands, a winter food preparation that sustained households through the cold months. The technique is cognate with French confit; the flavour profile is distinctive for the allspice, bay and pepper combination. In Thessaloniki the cold cuts arrive as the opening meze plate at Ladadika tsipouradika.

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Make it at home

Yield 1Hands-on 30 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1.5kg pork shoulder, cut into 3cm chunks
  • 2 tbsp coarse sea salt
  • 1 tsp ground black pepper
  • 2 tsp whole allspice berries, lightly crushed
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • 200g pork back fat or unsmoked bacon fat, cubed
  • 200ml olive oil
  • 200ml dry white wine
  • 1 head garlic, halved horizontally
  • Country bread, pickled green peppers and capers, to serve

Method

  1. Rub the pork chunks with coarse salt and refrigerate uncovered in a glass dish for 24 hours. This draws out moisture.
  2. Pat the pork dry. Place in a heavy lidded casserole with the pepper, allspice, bay, oregano, pork fat, olive oil, wine and the garlic halves cut-side down.
  3. Cover and bring to a bare simmer over low heat. The fat should melt and the meat should be just submerged.
  4. Cook over the lowest possible heat for 2 1/2 to 3 hours until the pork shreds at a touch. Stir every 30 minutes.
  5. Lift the meat out with a slotted spoon and shred coarsely with two forks, discarding the bay and garlic skins. Strain the cooking fat.
  6. Pack the shredded meat into sterilised glass jars or a terracotta pot, pressing down well. Pour the warm fat over until the meat is sealed under a finger of fat.
  7. Cool, cover and refrigerate at least 24 hours before eating. Keeps three weeks chilled.
  8. To serve cold, spoon onto country bread with pickled green peppers and capers. To serve warm, fry a portion in a pan to crisp the edges and crack two eggs over the top.

Tip from the editors. Allspice is the Macedonian signature; do not substitute pumpkin pie spice or generic mixed spice. Keep the fat seal intact in the jar between servings to extend shelf life.

Where to eat kavourmas

Kavourmas in Thessaloniki

Nea Folia ★ 4.3

€€ Greek

Since 1967, barely changed. Kavourmas of Xanthi beef, smoked mackerel with samphire, soutzoukakia of buffalo mince. At Aristomenous 4. Booking recommended.

Why locals goNo web presence, Ano Poli location deters casual visitors, no English menu

Directions

Ouzeri Tsinari ★ 4.2

€€ Greek

Trading in some form since 1865 near Kapani market. Meze and tsipouro that have barely changed in a century. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.

Why locals goLooks like a regular kafeneio from outside, no social media, market district location

Directions

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