Whole octopus dried on the line then chargrilled over wood until the tentacles caramelise and the body tenderises. Served with lemon, oregano, and a cold carafe of tsipouro.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
The chargrilled octopus is a pan-Aegean tradition present in every fishing community from the Adriatic to the Turkish Aegean coast. In Thessaloniki it is the signature tsipouradiko accompaniment, inseparable from the cold tsipouro ritual that begins every evening in Ladadika and along the waterfront tavernas of Nea Krini.
Tip from the editors. Do not boil octopus in salted water; the salt toughens it. The Mediterranean tradition cooks it dry with vinegar and aromatics in its own juices.
Trading in some form since 1865 near Kapani market. Meze and tsipouro that have barely changed in a century. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.
Why locals love it: Looks like a regular kafeneio from outside, no social media, market district location
On Giannitson near the port, Rouga is known to the port workers and city regulars who have been eating the tsipouro relay lunch here for years.
Why locals love it: Port-area location, Greek-only signage, no booking platform
Mavri Thalassa's wine cellar with over 300 labels is one of the most serious in northern Greece. The list is built for seafood: Assyrtiko, Malagousia.
Wine focus: 300+ label Greek and European list, seafood focus
More cities are in research. Want htapodi sti schara (chargrilled octopus) covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.