Frens Haringhandel ★ 4.6
Frens on Koningsplein near the Bloemenmarkt is the Amsterdam herring stand locals queue at, raw soused herring with onion and pickles, served the proper way.
Try: Hollandse Nieuwe haring
History
The herring trade built Amsterdam's economy in the 17th century. Hollandse Nieuwe means the new catch of the season, salted briefly so the herring oil reaches peak fat content. The first barrel of the year is traditionally auctioned for charity in early June. The Amsterdam haringhandel format, eaten standing at the stall with onion and pickles, dates back centuries; Frens at Koningsplein and Stubbe's at the Haarlemmersluis on the Singel are the city's reference stalls.
Common allergens: Fish
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 8 very fresh young herring, gutted and gibbed (the pancreas left in, which is the traditional Dutch cure)
- 200g coarse sea salt
- 1 large white onion, very finely diced
- 100g cornichon-style sweet pickles, chopped small
- 4 soft white bread rolls (broodjes), optional for serving
- Crushed ice for plating
Method
- Rinse the herring under very cold running water and pat dry. The fish must come from a trusted source and be flash-frozen at minus 20 degrees for 24 hours prior, to kill any Anisakis parasites.
- Bury the herring in the coarse sea salt in a non-reactive container, cover, and refrigerate for 5 days for the traditional cure, or use commercially matjes-cured herring if pressed.
- Rinse the salt off thoroughly, dry the herring, and let them temper at fridge temperature for 1 hour.
- Hold each herring by the tail, dip lightly in the diced onion so it sticks to the flesh.
- Tilt your head back, lower the herring tail-first into your mouth, and bite in two from the bottom up; chew slowly, the texture should be silken.
- Alternatively, lay the herring in a soft bread roll with a spoonful of onion and pickle on top for the broodje haring lunch version.
Tip from the editors. Real Hollandse Nieuwe is only sold from late May through early August. Outside that window, buy maatjesharing from a Dutch importer; the flavour is close but the texture is firmer.
Where to eat hollandse nieuwe (fresh herring)
Hollandse Nieuwe (Fresh Herring) in Amsterdam
Stubbe's Haring ★ 4.4
Stubbe's at the Haarlemmersluis bridge on the Singel near Centraal is the Amsterdam herring stand that ranks alongside Frens, family-run for more.
Try: Hollandse Nieuwe haring
Volendammer Vishandel ★ 4.3
Volendammer Vishandel on Albert Cuypstraat sells Amsterdam kibbeling fresh from the fryer, battered cod chunks with garlic mayonnaise, the way the markets.
Try: Kibbeling with garlic sauce
Hollandse Nieuwe (Fresh Herring) in Rotterdam
Markthal Rotterdam ★ 4.8
Europe's first indoor food market hall with a 40m-high arched ceiling and a giant food mural. Located in Centrum. At Dominee Jan Scharpstraat 298.
Binnenrotte Market ★ 4.5
Rotterdam's largest open-air market fills the Blaak square twice weekly with fresh produce, flowers, fish, Dutch street food. Located in Centrum.
Hollandse Nieuwe (Fresh Herring) in Utrecht
Boerenmarkt Snack Stalls ★ 4.8
The Saturday boerenmarkt on Vredenburgplein is the cheapest eating in Utrecht. Fresh haring, warm bitterballen and stroopwafel baked on the iron cost €2-5.
Try: Haring with raw onion, bitterballen and fresh stroopwafel
Biologische Boerenmarkt Vredenburg ★ 4.6
Utrecht's organic farmers market on Vredenburgplein every Friday. Local farmers sell cheese, organic produce, bread, juices, meat and sustainable fish.
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