Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki
Photo: pelican from Tokyo, Japan · CC BY-SA 2.0

History

Okonomiyaki in Hiroshima grew out of issen yoshoku, a prewar snack of batter and spring onion sold to children. After 1945 it became reconstruction food, cooked on sheet-metal griddles at stalls in the bombed centre of the city. Ise Mitsuo, who traded as Mitchan, is credited with fixing the modern shape: the layered build, the dedicated sauce and the addition of noodles under the egg. Stalls from the Nishi-Shintenchi square were moved into a single building in 1965, and that building became Okonomimura. The city now counts okonomiyaki shops in the high hundreds.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Soy

Make it at home

Yield Serves 2Hands-on 30 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 120g plain flour
  • 180ml water
  • 1 tsp dashi powder
  • 400g white cabbage, finely shredded
  • 150g thin-sliced pork belly
  • 2 portions of steamed chuka soba noodles
  • 4 eggs
  • 1 handful bean sprouts
  • 2 tbsp neutral oil
  • Okonomiyaki sauce
  • Aonori and katsuobushi to finish

Method

  1. Whisk the flour, water and dashi powder into a thin batter and rest it for 20 minutes.
  2. Heat a large flat pan or griddle to about 180C and oil it lightly. Ladle a thin 20cm disc of batter and let it set.
  3. Pile 200g of the shredded cabbage and half the bean sprouts on the disc, then lay 3 slices of pork belly over the top.
  4. Cook for 4 minutes, then flip the whole stack pork-side down. Press once and cook 6 minutes more so the cabbage steams down.
  5. On a clear part of the griddle, fry one portion of noodles until the edges crisp, then shape it into a disc.
  6. Lift the cabbage stack onto the noodles. Crack 2 eggs beside it, break the yolks and spread them into a thin sheet.
  7. Slide the whole stack onto the egg sheet, cook 2 minutes, then flip so the egg is on top.
  8. Brush generously with okonomiyaki sauce and finish with aonori and katsuobushi. Repeat for the second cake.

Tip from the editors. Do not stir the cabbage into the batter. The Hiroshima version is built in layers, and mixing gives you the Osaka dish instead.

Where to eat hiroshima-style okonomiyaki

Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki in Hiroshima

Mitchan Sohonten Hatchobori ★ 4.7

¥¥ OkonomiyakiHatchobori

The Hatchobori flagship of Mitchan Sohonten is the Hiroshima okonomiyaki counter most locals still send first-time visitors to, a brand trading since 1950.

OrderSoba niku-tama, with grilled oysters alongside at the evening teppan service

TipEvening service adds teppanyaki plates of oysters, horumon and koune that the lunch menu does not carry.

Yagenbori Hassho ★ 4.6

¥¥ OkonomiyakiYagenbori

Yagenbori Hassho is the Hiroshima okonomiyaki counter that works slowly, resting the cabbage under pork belly for 20 to 30 minutes before the soba lands.

OrderSoba niku-tama at 1,150 yen, the only order most regulars ever place

TipCooking takes 20 to 30 minutes per griddle cake, so this is a sit-down dinner rather than a quick stop.

Nagataya ★ 4.4

¥¥ OkonomiyakiOtemachi

Nagataya keeps its lunch okonomiyaki near the A-Bomb Dome at around 1,000 yen, which is fair going for a counter standing this close to the Peace Park.

TryHiroshima okonomiyaki

TipLunch runs cheaper than dinner here, and the kitchen closes for the day at 20:00 rather than running late.

Lopez ★ 4.6

¥¥ OkonomiyakiNishi Ku

Lopez sits well outside the Hiroshima okonomiyaki tourist circuit in Kusunoki-cho, and it closes all weekend, which keeps the counter firmly local.

OrderVegetables, pork, egg and soba with jalapenos on top

Why locals goA Guatemalan cook running an okonomiyaki griddle in a residential corner of Nishi-ku, open weeknights only and never at the weekend.

TipThe shop opens at 16:30 on weekdays and shuts Saturday and Sunday, so it never appears on a weekend itinerary.

Reichan ★ 4.2

¥¥ OkonomiyakiEkimae

Reichan starts its Hiroshima soba okonomiyaki at 790 yen inside ekie, which is fair going for a counter built into the Hiroshima Station complex itself.

TrySoba okonomiyaki

TipSquid and prawn toppings push the bill up quickly; the plain soba version is the budget order here.

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