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Warm loose sushi rice and fish rolled in crisp nori and eaten in three bites, the format Santa Monica's counter bars serve the second it is rolled.
Where to eat it: 2 restaurants across 1 city.

The hand roll became a Santa Monica genre when the Sushi Nozawa group brought KazuNori, its self-billed original hand roll bar, to Broadway, serving set menus of toro, blue crab and yellowtail across a plain counter. The form rewards speed: rice still warm, nori still crackling, eaten in the seconds after rolling.
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Common allergens: Fish, Shellfish, Soy
Tip from the editors. Everything waits for the eater, never the reverse; roll one at a time and eat each within thirty seconds.
KazuNori runs its original-format hand roll bar on Broadway in downtown Santa Monica, crisp nori and warm rice sets rolled the second you sit down.
OrderThe five-roll set, toro and blue crab included
TipNo reservations at the bar; the Friday-Saturday private bar for 7 to 12 was added for the 10th anniversary.
Sugarfish serves the Nozawa-school Trust Me on 2nd Street in Santa Monica, warm loose rice and cool fish in a set menu that rarely misses a beat.
OrderThe Trust Me set, finished with the hand roll
TipNo reservations; go at 11:30 sharp or mid-afternoon to dodge the wait, and default to the Trust Me.
More cities are in research. Want the toro hand roll covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.