History

Gira (called kvass in Russia) is the traditional fermented drink across the Baltic and Slavic lands. The Lithuanian version is made specifically from dark rye bread, water, sugar and a starter culture. Pinavija and Užupio Kavinė serve house-made gira; Halės Turgus stalls sell bottled versions. The drink pairs particularly well with cepelinai and other heavy Lithuanian plates.

Common allergens: Gluten

Make it at home

Yield 1Hands-on 15 minTotal 48 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 300 g dark rye bread, toasted dark
  • 1.5 litres boiling water
  • 100 g sugar
  • 7 g dry yeast
  • 50 g raisins
  • 1 tsp lemon juice

Method

  1. Toast the rye bread until very dark (almost burnt) on both sides.
  2. Place the toasted bread in a large bowl; pour boiling water over it. Cover and let stand for 4 to 6 hours.
  3. Strain the liquid through a cloth, pressing the bread to extract all the rye water. Discard the solids.
  4. Add sugar to the warm rye water and dissolve. Cool to body temperature.
  5. Add dry yeast and stir. Pour into a clean glass bottle. Add raisins and lemon juice.
  6. Loosely cap and let ferment at room temperature for 24 to 48 hours, until the gira tastes pleasantly sour and slightly fizzy. Refrigerate to stop fermentation.

Tip from the editors. The bread must be very dark-toasted, almost burnt, for the proper colour and flavour. Loosely cap during fermentation to vent CO2.

Where to eat gira (kvass)

Gira (Kvass) in Vilnius

Pinavija ★ 4.4

Bakery€senamiestisMon-Fri 09:30-20:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-19:30Walk-in onlyLithuanian kibinai and šakotis tree cake

Pinavija on Vilniaus is a family-run Lithuanian bakery cafe known for hot kibinai pastries, šakotis tree cake and brunch in a softly-French Old Town corner.

Tip: Indoor seating fills early on weekends. A šakotis to-go travels home well in checked luggage.

Worth the queue: Mutton kibinai

Vilniaus g. 21, 01402 Vilnius

Pinavija Café & Bakery ★ 4.3

Lithuanian€€senamiestisMon-Fri 09:30-20:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-19:30

Pinavija on Vilniaus is a family-owned bakery cafe known for hot kibinai pastries, šakotis tree cake and brunch in a softly-French Old Town corner.

Signature: Kibinai, Šakotis tree cake, Brunch plate

Order: A mutton kibinai with mustard, then a slice of šakotis.

Tip: Indoor seating fills early on weekends. Bench seating runs along Vilniaus in summer.

Vilniaus g. 21, 01402 Vilnius

Užupio Kavinė ★ 4.0

Lithuanian€€uzupisDaily 11:00-23:00

Užupio Kavinė sits on the Vilnelė riverbank at the edge of the Republic of Užupis, the longest-running Lithuanian dining room of the bohemian district.

Signature: Cepelinai, Šaltibarščiai, Gira

Order: Cepelinai with curd cheese; cold beet šaltibarščiai in summer with new potatoes.

Tip: The terrace over the Vilnelė is the seat to ask for. The Užupis Constitution wall is across the bridge.

Užupio g. 2, 01200 Vilnius

Halės Deli ★ 4.0

Lithuanian€naujamiestisMon-Sat 09:00-20:00, Sun 09:00-15:00

Halės Deli inside Halės Turgus sells a Lithuanian-craft beef burger for €7 to €9 sourced from the market butcher stalls, with Genys craft beer alongside.

Try: Lithuanian beef burger

Tip: Combo with a craft draught around €11. Pair with a stop at the cheese stalls for a market lunch.",

Pylimo g. 58, 01307 Vilnius

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