Feijoada
Photo: Melsj · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Feijoada, a stew of black beans simmered with pork cuts, is Brazil's national dish, but Sao Paulo turned it into a weekly ritual on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Local write-ups trace the fixed days to a Portuguese habit of pairing set dishes to set days of the week; Saturday's heavy plate also suits a day off, with time for a long lunch and the rest a rich stew calls for. Restaurants across the city built their schedules around it, serving the stew with rice, collard greens, orange slices and toasted farofa. Tordesilhas, chef Mara Salles' Jardins restaurant since 1990, keeps a Saturday-only feijoada on a menu otherwise built from regional Brazilian recipes.

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Make it at home

Yield Serves 6Hands-on 45 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g dried black beans, soaked overnight
  • 300g carne seca or beef brisket, cubed
  • 200g smoked pork ribs
  • 200g linguica (smoked pork sausage), sliced
  • 150g bacon, cubed
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 bay leaves
  • Salt and pepper, to taste
  • Cooked white rice, to serve
  • Couve (collard greens), thinly sliced and sauteed, to serve
  • Orange slices and farofa, to serve

Method

  1. Drain the soaked beans and place in a large pot with the bay leaves and enough fresh water to cover generously.
  2. Add the carne seca and pork ribs, bring to a boil, then simmer 1.5 hours, topping up water as needed.
  3. In a separate pan, brown the bacon, then add onion and garlic and soften. Add the linguica and brown briefly.
  4. Stir the bacon, onion, garlic and linguica into the bean pot and continue simmering 1 hour, until the beans break down into a thick, dark stew.
  5. Season with salt and pepper only near the end, once the smoked meats have released their salt.
  6. Serve with white rice, sauteed couve, orange slices and farofa on the side.

Tip from the editors. Undersalt while the smoked meats cook; they release plenty of salt into the pot on their own.

Where to eat feijoada

Feijoada in São Paulo

Tordesilhas ★ 4.4

$$ BrazilianJardins

Tordesilhas has run in Jardins since 1990 under chef Mara Salles, plating regional Brazilian dishes with feijoada served on Saturdays in Sao Paulo.

OrderBolinho de pirarucu or the shrimp bobo

TipThe full feijoada only runs on Saturdays; other days stick to the wider regional Brazilian menu.

Bar Brahma ★ 4.0

$$ BrazilianBoteco, live-music barRepublica

Bar Brahma has run since 1948 on the corner of Ipiranga and Sao Joao in downtown Sao Paulo, pouring draft chope under nightly live samba and MPB.

DrinkDraft Brahma chope

FoodFeijoada and Brazilian boteco plates

TipAn artistic cover charge applies once the band starts: it varies by performer, so ask at the door.

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