History

Fasolada is the unofficial national dish of Greece, present on Lenten and everyday tables since the medieval period. The dish is built on dried gigantes or butter beans slow-cooked with the trinity of Greek vegetables (carrot, celery, onion) and finished with abundant olive oil. Diporto, Taverna Saita and the Athenian neighborhood tavernas plate fasolada as a cold-season staple, often as the first course before grilled protein.

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 30 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 500g dried gigantes or butter beans (or large white beans), soaked overnight
  • 150ml good Greek extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 large onions, finely diced
  • 3 carrots, finely diced
  • 3 celery sticks with leaves, finely diced
  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 400g tin good crushed tomatoes
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 1 teaspoon Greek paprika (sweet)
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Lemon wedges, kalamata olives, crusty bread, feta to serve
  • Extra virgin olive oil to finish each bowl

Method

  1. Drain the soaked beans. Place in a large pot, cover with cold water by 5cm. Bring to a boil, simmer 5 minutes, then drain (this removes the foam).
  2. Heat the olive oil in a heavy pot. Add the onion and cook over low heat for 15 minutes until very soft but not coloured.
  3. Add the carrot and celery and cook 10 minutes more.
  4. Stir in the garlic, then the tomato paste; cook 1 minute.
  5. Add the crushed tomatoes, bay leaves, oregano, paprika, parsley stalks, salt and pepper.
  6. Add the par-boiled beans and 2L hot water (the beans should be covered by 3cm).
  7. Simmer covered 90 minutes, then uncovered 45 to 60 minutes more until the beans are completely tender and the soup has thickened.
  8. Taste and adjust salt, pepper and add a final generous drizzle of olive oil before serving.
  9. Ladle into bowls. Serve each with a wedge of lemon, kalamata olives, crusty bread and a slab of feta.

Tip from the editors. Greek olive oil is the dish; use the best you have and use it generously. The bowl should taste of olive oil first, beans second.

Where to eat fasolada

Fasolada in Athens

Diporto ★ 4.8

Greek€€psyrri

Diporto is basement koutouki on a market-square corner with no sign, no menu, no english; the door is two trap-style entrances at street level.

Why locals love it: Basement koutouki on a market-square corner with no sign, no menu, no English; the door is two trap-style entrances at street level.

Tip: Lunch only from late morning until pans empty; descend the two doors and point at the trays.

Sokratous 9, Athina 105 52

Taverna Saita ★ 4.0

Greek€€plaka

Taverna Saita on Kydathineon in Plaka is the rare Athenian-locals tavern on the quiet end of the strip, opposite the Metamorphosis church courtyard.

Why locals love it: The rare Plaka room cooking for Athenian locals on the quiet end of Kydathineon, opposite the Metamorphosis church courtyard, away from souvenir shops.

Tip: Pavement tables face the quiet end of Kydathineon; book a fortnight ahead for weekend dinners.

Kydathineon 21, Plaka, Athina

Klimataria ★ 4.3

Greek€€psyrriDaily 12:00-00:30Until Daily until 02:00

Klimataria on Theatre Square in Athens runs until past midnight every night, the Psyrri institution since 1927 where rebetiko plays live and the wine comes.

Try: Slow-cooked lamb with house red from barrels

Order: Gigandes plaki, slow-cooked lamb and a half-kilo of the house red from the barrel.

Tip: Live music runs most evenings from around 22:00; book a fortnight ahead for the weekend seatings.

Plateia Theatrou 2, Athina 105 52 Book →

Karavitis Tavern ★ 4.5

Greek€€pangrati

Karavitis Tavern on Pausaniou in Pangrati is the 1926 neighbourhood taverna with a rustic courtyard, barrels of house wine and a point-at-trays system.

Why locals love it: Pangrati neighbourhood taverna since 1926 with a rustic courtyard, barrels of house wine, and an order-by-pointing system that keeps the tourist trade away.

Tip: No reservations are taken; arrive before 21:00 on weeknights and before 20:30 on Saturdays.

Pausaniou 4 Pangrati, Athina 11635, Greece

More cities are in research. Want fasolada covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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