History

Esgarraet (Valencian for 'torn') emerged in the 19th-century inland Valencian villages, where dried salt-cod was the only fish available far from the coast. The fish is torn (esgarrar) into strips, mixed with roasted red peppers and raw garlic, and dressed with the best Valencian olive oil. The dish became canonical across the city as a tapa, especially at Casa Montana in the Cabanyal which has served the dish since 1836.

Common allergens: Fish

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 15 minTotal 24 hr 30 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 200g salt-cod (bacalao), thick centre cut, desalted
  • 4 large red peppers, roasted, skinned and seeded
  • 4 garlic cloves, peeled, very thinly sliced
  • 100ml extra-virgin Valencian olive oil
  • Sea salt to taste
  • Black olives, to garnish

Method

  1. Desalt the salt-cod: place in a large bowl of cold water in the fridge for 24 hours, changing the water 3 to 4 times.
  2. Roast the peppers in the oven at 200 C for 30 to 40 minutes, until charred. Cover with foil for 10 minutes to steam.
  3. Peel and seed the peppers, cut into thin strips.
  4. Drain the desalted salt-cod, pat dry, and tear by hand into thin strips (do not chop).
  5. Combine the cod strips, pepper strips, sliced garlic and olive oil in a bowl. Toss gently.
  6. Rest for 30 minutes for the flavours to merge. Garnish with black olives. Serve cold with crusty bread.

Tip from the editors. Tear the salt-cod with your hands; never chop with a knife. The texture and the name come from the tearing. Use Valencian olive oil if you can find it.

Where to eat esgarraet

Esgarraet in Valencia

Casa Montana ★ 4.5

Valencian Tapas€€el-cabanyalMon-Sat 12:30-16:00, Mon-Sat 20:00-23:30

Casa Montana on Carrer de Josep Benlliure in Valencia's Cabanyal fishing quarter has poured wine from oak barrels and served tapas since 1836.

Signature: Esgarraet, Anchoas del Cantabrico, Atun en aceite

Order: The esgarraet (salt-cod with roasted red peppers) and a glass of Utiel-Requena bobal from the barrel.

Tip: Reserve ahead, especially for weekends. Closed Sunday. The wine list runs deep into local Valencian small producers.

Calle de Jose Benlliure 69, 46011, Valencia Book →

Bar Ricardo ★ 4.7

Spanish tapas€€

Bar Ricardo in Valencia is a 1947 workers tapas bar in Extramurs long-favored by locals for esgarraet salt-cod salad and grilled sepia off the plancha.

Order: Esgarraet salt-cod salad and the sepia a la plancha, plus a cana.

Why locals love it: 1947 worker's tapas bar in Extramurs that tourists rarely find, established by locals for esgarraet and grilled sepia.

Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Lunch counter is packed by 13:30; arrive earlier.

Calle Doctor Zamenhof, 16, 46008 Valencia

Tasca Angel ★ 4.5

Seafood€€

Tasca Angel on Carrer de la Purisima is a 1946 charcoal sardine grill counter on a quiet old-town side street, lunchtime only with an all-local crowd.

Order: Half a dozen grilled sardines off the plancha with a cana.

Why locals love it: 1946 charcoal sardine grill counter on a quiet old-town side street, lunchtime-only, all-local crowd.

Tip: Open lunchtime only (12:00-16:00). Closed Sunday.

Carrer de la Purísima, 1, 46001 Valencia

Bodega Anyora ★ 4.0

Valencian Tapas€€cabanyal

Bodega Anyora on Carrer Vicent Gallart in Valencia's Canyamelar maritime quarter runs a restored 1937 wine room with a tight Valencian wines list and a daily.

Signature: Tapas valencianas, Esgarraet, Embutidos

Order: The plate of esgarraet with pickled-and-preserved vermut snacks.

Tip: Closed Sunday. The bar fills with locals from 20:30 onward Walk-ins usually OK.

Carrer d'en Vicent Gallart, 15, 46011 Valencia

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