El Sanjuanino ★ 4.3
Recoleta empanada institution since 1976. Order a dozen mixed (salteña, tucumana, cuyana) and take them away to the cemetery park for a working-lunch budget.
Try: Empanadas salteñas and tucumanas
Hand-shaped pastry pockets stuffed with beef, chicken, ham-and-cheese or humita. Argentina's working lunch and national appetiser, regional variants differ in size, dough, spice and meat cut.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
Empanadas arrived with Spanish colonisation in the 1500s and rooted regionally: Salteños fold a juicy beef-and-potato version with cumin; Tucumanos use cuchillo-cut beef and matambre fat; Porteños bake an oven-baked Buenos Aires-style with raisins and olives. El Sanjuanino in Recoleta has shaped them since 1976.
Common allergens: Gluten
Tip from the editors. Hand-dice the beef. Ground beef is faster but tastes like a different food.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Recoleta empanada institution since 1976. Order a dozen mixed (salteña, tucumana, cuyana) and take them away to the cemetery park for a working-lunch budget.
Try: Empanadas salteñas and tucumanas
Pueyrredon empanada counter famous for tucumana-style and the picante (spicy minced beef and potato). Winter Tuesdays and Thursdays bring locro at the bar.
Try: Tucumana empanadas
Balvanera empanada counter doing the Tucuman canon at lunch-budget prices. Stand-up service, half-dozen empanadas plus a humita at working-lunch cost.
Try: Tucumana empanadas, humitas
Sunday folk-and-food fair on the historic livestock-yard plazas. Provincial empanadas, locro pots, whole-lamb al asador and gaucho displays; Apr-Dec season.
More cities are in research. Want empanadas (porteñas, salteñas, tucumanas) covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.