Hadongkwan ★ 4.4
Hadongkwan has served seolleongtang (milky ox bone and brisket soup) from its Myeongdong address since 1939, at a price that remains practically unchanged.
Try: Seolleongtang (milky ox bone soup)
History
Doenjang jjigae is inseparable from Korean daily eating culture. Doenjang (fermented soybean paste) has been made in Korea for at least 2,000 years, predating gochujang paste by several centuries. The jjigae (stew) format was the standard peasant food of the Joseon dynasty, using whatever vegetables and protein were available with the fermented paste as the flavour base. Korean doenjang is more complex in flavour than Japanese miso: it is fermented longer, often outdoors, and develops earthy, pungent, umami-rich characteristics that define the taste memory of Korean cooking.
Common allergens: Soy, Shellfish (optional)
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 3 tablespoons doenjang (Korean fermented soybean paste)
- 1 teaspoon gochujang (optional, for heat)
- 400ml anchovy and kelp broth (or plain water)
- 150g firm tofu, cut into 2cm cubes
- 1 small zucchini, cut into half-moons
- 4 shiitake mushrooms, sliced
- 1 potato, diced and half-cooked (optional)
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 3 stalks spring onion, cut into 3cm lengths
Method
- Bring the broth to a boil. Dissolve the doenjang and gochujang into the broth by stirring vigorously.
- Add the garlic, potato (if using), and zucchini. Cook for 5 minutes.
- Add the tofu and mushrooms. Simmer for 5 to 7 minutes, until the tofu has absorbed some of the broth.
- Add the spring onion and cook for 1 minute more.
- Serve in the pot or claypot at the table, keeping it bubbling on a small flame.
Tip from the editors. Doenjang loses flavour if boiled hard for long periods. Add it early to develop depth, but do not overcook: the paste should simmer, not boil vigorously after adding.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Where to eat doenjang jjigae (fermented soybean stew)
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