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History
Baati is a hard wheat-flour roll baked over coals or in an oven and finished in ghee, served with dal and churma, a sweet made by crushing baked dough with ghee and sugar or jaggery. Wikipedia says information on the dish's origins is scarce and the tale of soldiers baking dough in sand is anecdotal. Condé Nast Traveller India's Jaipur contributors split on style: one family mixes baati, dal and churma on the plate, another praises a Sindhi Camp dhaba for baatis fried crisp.
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Jaipur
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Heritage Walk & Street Food Tasting in Jaipur
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Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 300g wholemeal flour
- 50g fine semolina
- 1/2 teaspoon carom seeds (ajwain)
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 140g ghee, 80g melted for the dough and 60g melted for finishing
- About 120ml warm water
- 100g toor dal, 50g chana dal and 50g split moong dal
- 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
- 2 tablespoons ghee for the tadka
- 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, a pinch of asafoetida, 4 chopped garlic cloves and 1 dried red chilli
- 1 teaspoon chilli powder
- 40g jaggery or sugar and 3 crushed cardamom pods, for the churma
Method
- Rub 80g melted ghee into the flour, semolina, carom seeds and salt, add the water and knead a firm dough, then rest it for 20 minutes.
- Heat the oven to 200C. Roll the dough into 8 balls, press a deep dent in each with your thumb and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, turning halfway, until deep golden and cracked.
- Rinse the three dals and simmer them with the turmeric and 900ml water for 40 minutes until soft, then mash lightly and salt to taste.
- Heat 2 tablespoons ghee, fry the cumin, chilli, asafoetida and garlic until the garlic colours, stir in the chilli powder and pour over the dal. Simmer 5 minutes.
- For the churma, crush 2 hot baati to coarse crumbs and mix with 2 tablespoons of the finishing ghee, the jaggery and the cardamom.
- Break the remaining baati open, dunk them in the rest of the melted ghee and serve with the dal and churma.
Tip from the editors. Press the dents deep and bake until the crust cracks; a baati still pale in the middle needs ten more minutes.
Where to eat dal baati churma
Dal baati churma in Jaipur
Santosh Bhojnalaya ★ 3.9
Santosh Bhojnalaya is a no-frills dhaba-style restaurant at Sindhi Camp in Jaipur, known for its dal, baati and kadhi meal, at about ₹250 for two.
OrderThe dal baati churma meal with kadhi, the dish Condé Nast Traveller India praises.
TipThis is the Station Road outlet at Sindhi Camp; EazyDiner lists it open from 10:00 to 23:00 every day.
Thali and More (C-Scheme) ★ 3.6
Thali and More on Sarojini Marg in C-Scheme, Jaipur, is a vegetarian restaurant serving Rajasthani thali with dal baati churma and kadhi until 23:00.
OrderThe Rajasthani thali with dal baati churma, and the Rajasthani kadhi.
TipThe restaurant is on the first floor, and it also takes delivery orders at lunch and dinner.
Laxmi Misthan Bhandar (LMB) ★ 4.0
Laxmi Misthan Bhandar, known as LMB, runs a vegetarian restaurant and sweet counter on Johari Bazar Road in Jaipur, with thali, kachori and ghewar.
OrderThe thali with dal baati churma and kadhi, then the ker sangri, and ghewar to finish.
TipThe sweet counter and the restaurant share the Johari Bazar Road address; Lifestyle Asia lists the shop as open from 07:00 to 23:00.
Handi Restaurant ★ 3.9
Handi Restaurant on MI Road in Jaipur, opposite the GPO, cooks laal maas and dal baati churma in a dhaba-style room that has a rooftop dining area.
OrderThe laal maas, and the dal baati churma that Travel + Leisure Asia calls excellent.
TipThe restaurant is in Maya Mansion opposite the GPO and has run since the 1980s, according to Travel + Leisure Asia.
Chokhi Dhani ★ 3.9
Chokhi Dhani, a village-style dinner venue on Tonk Road, Jaipur, serves dal, baati and churma with folk dance, puppet shows and craft stalls.
OrderDal baati churma, with the baati sunk in ghee, from the Rajasthani dinner.
TipEntry is from 17:00; dinner is ticketed in three categories, the Rajasthani dinner, the Royal Thali and a multi-cuisine buffet at the resort.
More cities are in research. Want dal baati churma covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.