Toasted Tuscan bread topped with a creamy chicken-liver and anchovy spread laced with capers and Vin Santo, the canonical Florentine antipasto served before every trattoria dinner.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
The crostino di fegatini traces to medieval Tuscan banquets, where the inner organs of poultry were considered a delicacy by the Medici court. The combination of chicken liver, anchovy, capers and Vin Santo was canonised by the 19th-century housekeeping manuals of Tuscany. By the early 1900s, every Florentine trattoria opened a meal with the crostini neri (the dark crostini, named for the colour of the spread). The Antinori family's Cantinetta still serves the original Castello d'Albola version with a glass of Antinori Tignanello.
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Common allergens: Gluten, Fish
Tip from the editors. Some traditions add a beaten egg to the warm paste off-heat; an Italian school of thought. The Florentine version skips the egg.
Cantinetta Antinori in Florence's Palazzo Antinori is the 26-generation Antinori family's wine bar and restaurant on Via Tornabuoni, with a 150-bottle list.
OrderCrostini misti, tagliere di salumi, a glass of Tignanello.
PourTignanello by the glass
WineMarchesi Antinori estate Tuscan reds
FoodTuscan small plates and tagliere
TipClosed Saturday and Sunday. Book the cellar tasting flight (€45) two weeks ahead.
Buca Lapi in Florence's Santa Maria Novella has cooked the bistecca alla fiorentina in the Palazzo Antinori cellar since 1880, a candlelit basement of long.
OrderThe bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the tartufo pasta in season.
TipCash and card; book three weeks ahead. The cellar is hot in summer; ask for the front room.
Trattoria Marione in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter runs the unfussy lunchtime carte locals queue for, with the four pillars of Florentine cucina.
OrderRibollita, pappa al pomodoro and the bistecca alla fiorentina by the etto.
TipCash and card; queue from 12:30. Closed Sunday; lunch and dinner both seat at 12:30 and 19:30.
Trattoria da Burde in Florence: italian room. Bus 35 to a 1901 trattoria the working quarter still treats as its own; Friday-night bistecca.
Why locals goBus 35 to a 1901 trattoria the working quarter still treats as its own; Friday-night bistecca dinner is the seating locals book three weeks ahead.
TipLunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday.
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