Cordero asado is the Castilian roast-lamb tradition Madrid inherited: a 25-day-old milk-fed lamb (lechazo) roasted in a wood-fired clay oven, served with patatas a lo pobre and a green salad.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
Cordero asado is the Castilian shepherding tradition that came to Madrid with the 17th-century livestock trade. The milk-fed lechazo (25 days old, 4 to 6 kilos at slaughter) is the canonical roast, taken from the rebano during the spring weaning season. The lamb is rubbed with lard and salt, placed in clay roasting dishes over a layer of potatoes, then slow-roasted in wood-fired clay ovens for 90 minutes. Sobrino de Botin's 1725 oven still produces canonical cordero alongside its more famous cochinillo. Los Galayos in Plaza Mayor has roasted cordero since 1894. The order tradition: 1/4 of a lamb feeds one person, 1/2 feeds two.
Common allergens: None typical
Tip from the editors. The slow-roast (160C) for 90 minutes is essential to render the fat without drying the meat. A heavy clay roasting dish (cazuela de barro) produces the Castilian wood-oven effect at home.
Sobrino de Botin near Plaza Mayor in Madrid is the Guinness-certified oldest restaurant in the world, in business since 1725. Located in Centro.
Signature: Cochinillo asado, Cordero asado, Sopa de ajo
Order: The cochinillo asado roasted in the 1725 wood oven, then sopa de ajo with poached egg.
Tip: Book the cave dining room downstairs three weeks ahead. Lunch is calmer than dinner; the 14:00 service is the working-day local hour.
Los Galayos in Plaza Mayor in Madrid has cooked the Castilian roast lamb and the migas pastoriles since 1894, with a terrace under the arcades and wood-fired.
Signature: Cordero asado, Migas pastoriles, Patatas bravas
Order: The cordero asado from the wood oven (1/4 lamb portion) and the migas pastoriles with grapes.
Tip: Book the inside dining room for cordero; the terrace is fine for tapas but the lamb needs the wood oven downstairs.
Posada de la Villa on Cava Baja in Madrid's La Latina has roasted Castilian cordero in a wood-fired oven since 1642, with the cocido madrileno and callos.
Signature: Cordero asado, Cocido madrileno, Callos a la madrilena
Order: The cordero asado roasted in the wood oven and the cocido madrileno (three vuelcos).
Tip: Book a week ahead for weekend lunch. Cordero orders must be placed when reserving; the lamb is roasted to order.
Casa Paco off Plaza Puerta Cerrada in Madrid's La Latina is the 1933 asador that pioneered the cast-iron skillet chuleton service: meat is sealed.
Signature: Chuleton de ternera, Cochinillo, Callos
Order: The chuleton de ternera for two (450g per person, 28 euros per head) and the callos in winter.
Tip: Walk-in only at lunch; reservation taken for dinner. The downstairs dining room is the wood-panelled original.
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