History

Colcannon has been an Irish staple since at least the 17th century, taking its name from the Gaelic cál ceannann (white-headed cabbage). The Halloween tradition of hiding tokens in the mash for good luck dates to the 19th century. Dublin pub kitchens at Gallagher's Boxty House, Delahunt and Bastible all run defensible versions, especially through the autumn-winter months.

Common allergens: Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 20 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1.5kg floury potatoes (Maris Piper or Roosters), peeled
  • 300g curly kale or savoy cabbage, ribs removed, leaves shredded
  • 100g unsalted Irish butter (Kerrygold), plus 30g extra to finish
  • 200ml whole milk, warm
  • 100ml double cream, warm
  • 6 spring onions, finely sliced (whites and greens kept separate)
  • 1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
  • Salt and freshly ground white pepper
  • Extra cold Irish butter, cut into a knob, to serve
  • 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped, to garnish

Method

  1. Cut the potatoes into even 4cm chunks. Cover with cold salted water in a large pot, bring to a boil, and simmer 18 to 22 minutes until tender.
  2. While the potatoes cook, bring a small pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the kale 2 minutes, then drain hard and squeeze out as much water as possible.
  3. Melt 30g of the butter in a small pan over medium heat. Add the whites of the spring onions and cook 2 minutes until soft.
  4. Add the blanched kale to the pan and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper.
  5. Drain the potatoes and return to the pot to dry over low heat for 2 minutes; this step is what stops the mash going gluey.
  6. Mash the potatoes with a potato ricer or masher until smooth. Beat in the warm milk, cream, remaining 70g butter and the nutmeg.
  7. Fold the buttered kale and spring onion whites through the mash. Stir in the greens of the spring onions last.
  8. Taste and adjust salt and pepper.
  9. Pile into a warm serving dish and make a deep well in the centre with the back of a spoon. Drop a knob of cold butter into the well and let it melt.
  10. Sprinkle parsley over the top and serve immediately.

Tip from the editors. Dry boiled potatoes over low heat before mashing; this stops the mash going claggy. Kerrygold is the local cue; sweet-cream butter tastes blank by comparison.

Where to eat colcannon

Colcannon in Dublin

Gallagher's Boxty House ★ 4.2

Irish€€temple-barMon-Sat 09:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00

Gallagher's Boxty House on Temple Bar in Dublin, Pádraic Óg Gallagher's three-room canon of boxty, coddle and smoked salmon, the boxty reference in town.

Signature: Boxty pancake, Dublin coddle, Smoked Irish salmon

Order: The boxty pancake stuffed with beef and Guinness, with a half pint of stout.

Tip: The middle dining room is the calm one; the front bar fills with traffic from Temple Bar Square after 19:00.

20-21 Temple Bar, Dublin 2, D02 ET66

Delahunt ★ 4.6

Modern Irish€€€portobelloTue-Sat 17:00-21:00, Fri-Sat 12:30-14:30, Sun-Mon closed

Delahunt on Camden Street in Dublin, Darren Free's modern Irish dining room with head chef Dermot Staunton inside a restored Joycean grocer.

Signature: Squab pigeon, Atlantic hake, Apple tarte fine

Order: The squab pigeon course and a glass of natural Riesling from the wine list.

Tip: Friday and Saturday book three weeks ahead. The upstairs bar serves the full menu and is the walk-up option.

39 Camden Street Lower, Dublin 2, D02 K277

Bastible 1 ★ ★ 4.6

IrishChef Killian Walsh€€€€€75-95portobelloWed-Fri 17:30-21:30, Sat 13:00-15:00 17:30-21:30, Sun-Tue closedBook 2-3 weeks ahead

Bastible on the South Circular Road corner at Leonard's, the Barry FitzGerald-owned one-Michelin-star neighbourhood room with head chef Killian Walsh.

Order: The set menu only, designed around what FitzGerald has from Irish growers and the Atlantic that week.

Tip: The bar seats book up later; if the dining room is gone, ask if the four counter seats are open for the same kitchen.

111 South Circular Road, Dublin 8, D08 RW2K Book →

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