Colcannon
Photo: Alison Cassidy · Public domain

History

Colcannon has been an Irish staple since at least the 17th century, taking its name from the Gaelic cál ceannann (white-headed cabbage). The Halloween tradition of hiding tokens in the mash for good luck dates to the 19th century. Dublin pub kitchens at Gallagher's Boxty House, Delahunt and Bastible all run defensible versions, especially through the autumn-winter months.

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Common allergens: Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 20 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1.5kg floury potatoes (Maris Piper or Roosters), peeled
  • 300g curly kale or savoy cabbage, ribs removed, leaves shredded
  • 100g unsalted Irish butter (Kerrygold), plus 30g extra to finish
  • 200ml whole milk, warm
  • 100ml double cream, warm
  • 6 spring onions, finely sliced (whites and greens kept separate)
  • 1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
  • Salt and freshly ground white pepper
  • Extra cold Irish butter, cut into a knob, to serve
  • 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped, to garnish

Method

  1. Cut the potatoes into even 4cm chunks. Cover with cold salted water in a large pot, bring to a boil, and simmer 18 to 22 minutes until tender.
  2. While the potatoes cook, bring a small pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the kale 2 minutes, then drain hard and squeeze out as much water as possible.
  3. Melt 30g of the butter in a small pan over medium heat. Add the whites of the spring onions and cook 2 minutes until soft.
  4. Add the blanched kale to the pan and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper.
  5. Drain the potatoes and return to the pot to dry over low heat for 2 minutes; this step is what stops the mash going gluey.
  6. Mash the potatoes with a potato ricer or masher until smooth. Beat in the warm milk, cream, remaining 70g butter and the nutmeg.
  7. Fold the buttered kale and spring onion whites through the mash. Stir in the greens of the spring onions last.
  8. Taste and adjust salt and pepper.
  9. Pile into a warm serving dish and make a deep well in the centre with the back of a spoon. Drop a knob of cold butter into the well and let it melt.
  10. Sprinkle parsley over the top and serve immediately.

Tip from the editors. Dry boiled potatoes over low heat before mashing; this stops the mash going claggy. Kerrygold is the local cue; sweet-cream butter tastes blank by comparison.

Where to eat colcannon

Colcannon in Dublin

Gallagher's Boxty House ★ 4.2

€€ IrishTemple Bar

Gallagher's Boxty House on Temple Bar in Dublin, Pádraic Óg Gallagher's three-room canon of boxty, coddle and smoked salmon, the boxty reference in town.

OrderThe boxty pancake stuffed with beef and Guinness, with a half pint of stout.

TipThe middle dining room is the calm one; the front bar fills with traffic from Temple Bar Square after 19:00.

Directions

Delahunt ★ 4.6

€€€ Modern IrishPortobello

Delahunt on Camden Street in Dublin, Darren Free's modern Irish dining room with head chef Dermot Staunton inside a restored Joycean grocer.

OrderThe squab pigeon course and a glass of natural Riesling from the wine list.

TipFriday and Saturday book three weeks ahead. The upstairs bar serves the full menu and is the walk-up option.

Directions

Bastible 1 ★ ★ 4.6

€€€€ Tasting €75-95IrishPortobelloChef Killian Walsh

Bastible on the South Circular Road corner at Leonard's, the Barry FitzGerald-owned one-Michelin-star neighbourhood room with head chef Killian Walsh.

OrderThe set menu only, designed around what FitzGerald has from Irish growers and the Atlantic that week.

Book2-3 weeks ahead

TipThe bar seats book up later; if the dining room is gone, ask if the four counter seats are open for the same kitchen.

Directions Book

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