History
Cochinita pibil is a Yucatec Maya dish from the Yucatán Peninsula. Cochinita means baby pig, so the full version roasts a whole suckling pig, though most cooks use shoulder. The meat is marinated in the juice of bitter (Seville) oranges with achiote, which gives the burnt-orange colour, then wrapped in banana leaf and cooked in a píib, a pit with a fire at the bottom. It comes with corn tortillas, red pickled onion, black beans and habanero. In Cancún it is the morning order at the Mercado 23 fondas and at El Tatich, which sells it as tacos and tortas.
Book a food experience
Tours, tastings and classes from the cities on this page, bookable on GetYourGuide.
Common allergens: Pork
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 1.5 kg pork shoulder, cut into 4 large pieces
- 100 g achiote paste (recado rojo)
- 250 ml bitter orange juice, or 150 ml orange juice plus 100 ml lime juice
- 4 garlic cloves
- 1 tsp dried oregano
- 1/2 tsp ground cumin
- 1/2 tsp black pepper
- 2 tsp salt
- 4 large banana leaves
- 2 red onions, thinly sliced, for pickling
- 1 habanero chile, finely chopped
- 150 ml lime juice for the onions
- Corn tortillas to serve
Method
- Blend the achiote paste, bitter orange juice, garlic, oregano, cumin, pepper and salt until smooth.
- Rub the marinade into the pork, cover and refrigerate for at least 12 hours.
- Pass the banana leaves briefly over a gas flame until they turn glossy and pliable, then line a deep roasting dish with them.
- Lay the pork and all its marinade on the leaves, fold the leaves over to enclose it, and cover the dish tightly with foil.
- Roast at 160°C for 3 hours 30 minutes, until the meat shreds easily with a fork.
- Meanwhile mix the onion, habanero, lime juice and a pinch of salt and leave to pickle for at least 1 hour.
- Shred the pork in its juices and serve in warm tortillas topped with the pickled onion.
Tip from the editors. Without bitter oranges, the orange and lime mix gives the same sharp marinade; never skip the acid, which tenderises the meat.
Where to eat cochinita pibil
Cochinita pibil in Cancún
El Tatich ★ 4.0
El Tatich, beside Walmart Gran Plaza in Cancún, sells cochinita pibil and oven-roast lechón as tacos and tortas until the pork runs out each afternoon.
OrderTacos or a torta of cochinita pibil or lechón al horno, and relleno negro on Sundays.
TipTables close at 15:30 and takeaway at 16:00, or when the cochinita and lechón run out; there are no other branches.
Mercado 23 fondas ★ 4.2
Mercado 23 fondas are the lunch counters of the Mercado Javier Rojo Gómez in downtown Cancún, cooking cochinita pibil, salbutes, papadzules and relleno negro.
OrderCochinita pibil tacos or a plate of salbutes, then papadzules or relleno negro if the fonda has them.
Why locals goLunch counters inside the working market, reached from Avenida Chichén Itzá and Avenida Tulum, serving cochinita and tamales while it is busy before 14:00.
TipGo between 08:00 and 11:00, when the best food is served; the market slows down by 14:00. Bring small peso notes.
TUCH Cantina Yucateca Huayacán ★ 4.2
TUCH Cantina Yucateca on Avenida Huayacán in Cancún serves Yucatecan plates and drinks, with live music Wednesday to Sunday and botana free with each drink.
OrderA cantarito de tequila with the free botana, then cochinita pibil or panuchos from the menu.
DrinkCantarito de tequila
FoodFree botana with every drink
TipThe botana arrives free with your drinks, so order drinks first; the cantina opens at 13:00 every day and runs to 02:00.
Cochinita pibil in Los Angeles
Chichen Itza Restaurant ★ 4.7
Chichen Itza, founded by the Cetina family, has served authentic Yucatecan cuisine at 3655 S Grand Ave, Mercado La Paloma, Los Angeles since 2001.
Why locals goA family restaurant inside Mercado La Paloma serving Yucatan flavors since 2001, run today by Gilberto Jr. and his wife Marissa.
TipOrder the cochinita pibil, pork marinated with achiote and sour orange juice and cooked in banana leaves, or the papadzules.
Cochinita pibil in Mérida
Manjar Blanco ★ 4.4
Manjar Blanco on Mérida's Calle 47 corridor near Paseo de Montejo runs cochinita pibil and queso relleno (Netflix Taco Chronicles featured) lunch only.
SignatureCochinita pibil tacos, Queso relleno negro, Pavo en escabeche
Doña Mary Cochinita Pibil ★ 4.7
Doña Mary Cochinita Pibil in Merida: Inside Lucas de Gálvez near the meat section, no signage, sells out by noon, locals only know which stall.
Why locals goInside Lucas de Gálvez near the meat section, no signage, sells out by noon, locals only know which stall.
TipGet there by 09:00; ask for la torta de cochinita and skip the rest of the morning's breakfast.
La Chaya Maya ★ 4.4
La Chaya Maya on Santa Lucía in Mérida pours tortillas on a clay comal in the dining room and runs sopa de lima, poc chuc and panuchos seven days a week.
SignatureSopa de lima, Poc chuc, Papadzules, Cochinita pibil
More cities are in research. Want cochinita pibil covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.