History

A criolla colonial chowder built on the Arequipa river-shrimp catch and brought along the highway to Lima during the 19th century. The queso fresco-and-milk thickener is the limena innovation; the aji panca colour comes from the Andean foothills. The Wednesday lunch standard for criolla restaurants since the 19th century. Las Brujas de Cachiche, El Bolivariano and Punto Azul keep the dish in regular rotation through the Lima winter.

Common allergens: Shellfish, Dairy, Egg

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 60 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g whole river prawns (camarones de rio) or large shrimp, heads on
  • 3 tbsp aji panca paste
  • 1 red onion, diced
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 medium potatoes, diced
  • 1 large corn cob (choclo), cut in rounds
  • 100g rice
  • 200g queso fresco, cubed
  • 200ml evaporated milk
  • 4 eggs
  • 60ml vegetable oil
  • 2 tomatoes, diced
  • Oregano and salt to taste
  • Coriander leaves

Method

  1. Remove shrimp heads and shells; reserve. Set the cleaned shrimp aside.
  2. Saute shrimp heads and shells in oil 5 minutes. Add 1.5L water, simmer 20 minutes. Strain stock, discard solids.
  3. In a clean pan, sweat onion and garlic in oil 5 minutes. Add aji panca and tomato; cook 5 minutes.
  4. Pour in shrimp stock; add potato, corn and rice. Simmer 15 minutes until tender.
  5. Add cleaned shrimp and queso fresco. Simmer 4 minutes.
  6. Stir in evaporated milk; do not boil after this. Adjust salt.
  7. Crack one egg per bowl into the hot soup; cover and let the eggs poach in the residual heat 3 minutes.
  8. Garnish with oregano and coriander; serve.

Tip from the editors. The chupe must not boil after the milk goes in or it curdles. Add the shrimp last so they stay tender.

Where to eat chupe de camarones

Chupe de Camarones in Lima

El Bolivariano ★ 4.3

Peruvian$$pueblo-libreMon-Thu 07:30-23:00, Fri-Sat 07:30-01:00, Sun 07:30-17:00

El Bolivariano on Pasaje Santa Rosa in Pueblo Libre Lima is a criolla institution in a republican casona, far quieter than the Miraflores tourist axis.

Why locals love it: A republican casona in mid-city Pueblo Libre, off the Miraflores-Barranco tourist axis, with criolla tradition dating to the 1780s.

Tip: Open from 07:30 for breakfast tamales; Sunday lunch is the family-table service.

Pasaje Santa Rosa 291, Pueblo Libre, Lima 15084

Astrid y Gaston ★ 4.7

PeruvianChef Gaston Acurio and Astrid Gutsche$$$$S/690san-isidroTue-Sat 13:00-22:30, Sun 12:00-15:30Book 4 weeks ahead

Astrid y Gaston at Casa Moreyra in San Isidro is the 1994 flagship of Gaston Acurio and Astrid Gutsche, in a 17th-century San Isidro hacienda from 2014.

Signature: Cuy pekines, Tasting menu, Tiraditos sequence

Order: The tasting menu, anchored by the cuy pekines, Peking-style guinea pig.

Tip: Closed Mondays; the patio of the hacienda is the seat to request when booking.

Av Paz Soldan 290, San Isidro, Lima 15073

Pescados Capitales ★ 4.4

Seafood$$$mirafloresMon-Sat 12:00-21:00, Sun 12:00-17:00

Pescados Capitales on Av Mariscal La Mar 1335 in Miraflores pioneered the cevicheria corridor, with a sin-named menu and sophisticated seafood program.

Signature: Ceviche siete pecados, Jalea, Tiradito

Order: The ceviche siete pecados (seven sins) and a jalea to share, with maracuya juice.

Tip: Quieter at 14:30 than 13:00; delivery available till 21:00 daily.

Av Mariscal La Mar 1335, Miraflores, Lima 15074

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