History

San Antonio's Chili Queens sold bowls of chili con carne from open-air stands in the downtown plazas from the 1880s, feeding workers and visitors by lamplight for decades. Their stands effectively introduced chili to the wider United States before the city closed them over sanitation rules in the 1930s and 1940s. The chili-gravy enchilada plate that defines San Antonio Tex-Mex descends directly from that tradition.

Make it at home

Yield Serves 6Hands-on 30 minTotal 2 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1kg beef chuck, cut into 1cm cubes or coarse-ground
  • 4 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
  • 2 dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
  • 1 onion, diced
  • 4 garlic cloves
  • 1 tablespoon ground cumin
  • 1 teaspoon dried oregano
  • Salt

Method

  1. Toast the dried chiles briefly, cover with hot water, and soak 20 minutes, then blend with a little soaking liquid into a smooth paste.
  2. Brown the beef in batches in a heavy pot, then remove.
  3. Soften the onion and garlic, return the beef, and stir in the chile paste, cumin, and oregano.
  4. Add water to barely cover and simmer gently for 2 hours until the beef is tender and the gravy is deep red and thick.
  5. Season with salt and serve in bowls, or ladle over cheese enchiladas.

Tip from the editors. Keep it bean-free for the Texas style. The dried-chile paste, not chili powder, is what gives a proper bowl its depth.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat chili con carne

Chili con carne in San Antonio

Mi Tierra Cafe y Panaderia ★ 4.3

market-squareUntil Open 24 hours

Mi Tierra at Market Square never closes, so a 3am plate of enchiladas with strolling mariachis and a stop at the panaderia counter is a San Antonio rite.

Try: Enchiladas, pan dulce, mariachi at any hour

Tip: The 24-hour dining room makes it the default after-midnight Tex-Mex stop. Buy pan dulce from the bakery on your way out.

La Fonda on Main ★ 4.2

Mexican$$tobin-hillLunch and dinner, closed Monday

La Fonda on Main is the oldest continuously operating Mexican restaurant in San Antonio, opened by sisters Virginia Berry and Nannie Randall in 1932.

Order: Cheese enchiladas, mole poblano and a margarita on the hacienda patio.

Tip: Ask for a table on the covered patio. The mole poblano is the dish to order if you want something beyond Tex-Mex.

Rosario's ComidaMex & Bar ★ 4.0

southtownUntil Late on weekends

Rosario's two-storey Southtown room keeps its rooftop bar and Tex-Mex kitchen going late on weekends, especially on First Friday when the area fills up.

Try: Tex-Mex and frozen margaritas on the rooftop

Tip: The rooftop bar runs late on weekends. First Friday in Southtown is the night to come for the full scene.

More cities are in research. Want chili con carne covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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