History

Chili con carne traces to the San Antonio chili queens of the 1880s, who set up open-air braziers in Military Plaza serving meaty stew to railroad workers. Texas codified the no-beans rule in 1977 when chili was named the state dish. Austin's chili cook-offs and the Original Terlingua International Championship 4 hours west established the modern competition recipe.

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 40 minTotal 3 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1.5kg beef chuck, cut into 2cm cubes
  • 8 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
  • 4 dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
  • 2 dried pasilla chiles, stemmed and seeded
  • 1 litre beef stock, hot
  • 60g lard or beef tallow
  • 2 large onions, diced
  • 8 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 2 tbsp ground cumin
  • 1 tbsp Mexican oregano
  • 1 tbsp smoked paprika
  • 1 tsp cayenne pepper (adjust)
  • 2 tbsp masa harina (for thickening)
  • 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar
  • 1 tsp dark brown sugar
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Diced white onion, grated cheddar, pickled jalapenos, cornbread, to serve

Method

  1. Toast the dried chiles in a dry pan over medium heat for 30 seconds per side until fragrant.
  2. Cover the chiles with 500ml of the hot beef stock and soak 20 minutes until softened. Blend smooth in a blender; this is your chile paste.
  3. Heat the lard in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat. Brown the beef chuck in batches, about 5 minutes per batch. Set aside.
  4. Cook the onions in the rendered fat for 8 minutes until soft. Add the garlic for 1 minute.
  5. Stir in the cumin, oregano, smoked paprika and cayenne. Toast 1 minute.
  6. Return the beef. Pour in the chile paste and the remaining 500ml stock. Stir to combine.
  7. Bring to a simmer, cover and braise on the lowest heat for 2 1/2 hours, stirring every 30 minutes.
  8. Whisk the masa harina with 4 tbsp water to a paste. Stir into the chili and cook uncovered 15 minutes to thicken.
  9. Stir in the vinegar and brown sugar. Taste and adjust salt; the dish should be deep, smoky and silky.
  10. Serve in deep bowls with diced raw onion, grated cheddar and pickled jalapenos on top, cornbread on the side.

Tip from the editors. No beans, no tomatoes; that is the Texas law. Use dried chiles, not chili powder; the paste is what makes a real Texas red.

Where to eat chili con carne

Chili con carne in Austin

Matt's El Rancho ★ 4.3

Tex-mex$$south-lamar

Matt's El Rancho in Austin is the Martinez family's South Lamar Tex-Mex room since 1952, home of the Bob Armstrong queso dip and a citywide birthday-dinner.

Signature: Bob Armstrong dip, Enchiladas with chili gravy, Frozen margarita

Order: Bob Armstrong dip, beef enchiladas with chili gravy, plus a frozen margarita on the side.

Tip: The patio under the oaks holds 200; arrive 5:30pm to dodge the 7-to-9 family wait.

Dai Due ★ 4.6

New American$$

Dai Due is jesse griffiths's wild-game and butchery school plus restaurant on manor road is a bib gourmand kitchen most visitors miss for the bigger names.

Why locals love it: Jesse Griffiths's wild-game and butchery school plus restaurant on Manor Road is a Bib Gourmand kitchen most visitors miss for the bigger names.

Tip: Sit at the supper-club nights for the most experimental menu; the New School of Traditional Cookery runs hunting and butchery classes too.

Cisco's Restaurant Bakery & Bar ★ 4.0

Mexican$$east-austin

Cisco's in Austin is Rudy Cisneros's East 6th Tex-Mex breakfast counter since 1948, the room that ran the city's politician breakfasts and helped make huevos.

Signature: Huevos rancheros, Migas, Chorizo and eggs

Order: Huevos rancheros plate with refried beans and a side flour tortilla.

Tip: The morning rush peaks at 8:30am; smoother before 7:30 or after 10. Cash and card both work fine.

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Chili con carne in San Antonio

Mi Tierra Cafe y Panaderia ★ 4.3

Mexican$$market-squareSun-Thu 08:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 08:00-23:00Until Open 24 hours

Mi Tierra at Market Square never closes, so a 3am plate of enchiladas with strolling mariachis and a stop at the panaderia counter is a San Antonio rite.

Try: Enchiladas, pan dulce, mariachi at any hour

Tip: The 24-hour dining room makes it the default after-midnight Tex-Mex stop. Buy pan dulce from the bakery on your way out.

La Fonda on Main ★ 4.2

Mexican$$tobin-hillLunch and dinner, closed Monday

La Fonda on Main is the oldest continuously operating Mexican restaurant in San Antonio, opened by sisters Virginia Berry and Nannie Randall in 1932.

Order: Cheese enchiladas, mole poblano and a margarita on the hacienda patio.

Tip: Ask for a table on the covered patio. The mole poblano is the dish to order if you want something beyond Tex-Mex.

Rosario's ComidaMex & Bar ★ 4.0

Mexican$$southtownUntil Late on weekends

Rosario's two-storey Southtown room keeps its rooftop bar and Tex-Mex kitchen going late on weekends, especially on First Friday when the area fills up.

Try: Tex-Mex and frozen margaritas on the rooftop

Tip: The rooftop bar runs late on weekends. First Friday in Southtown is the night to come for the full scene.

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