Cepes a la bordelaise are Aquitaine porcini sauteed with garlic, finely chopped shallots, parsley and a knob of butter, served at the height of the autumn harvest as a side or a main with bread.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
The preparation is named after Bordeaux but actually originated in the Landes and the Perigord pine forests where the cepes grow. The Bordelaise twist is the use of shallots over onions and a finishing parsley persillade. La Tupina, La Cape and Le Chien de Pavlov all serve them in season, and most southwestern French bistros put them on autumn menus.
Common allergens: None
Tip from the editors. Do not crowd the pan; cepes release water if piled. Sear them in batches if needed.
La Tupina in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre district is the southwestern French institution founded by Jean-Pierre Xiradakis in 1968, now led by chef Franck Audu.
Signature: Entrecote a la bordelaise, Tricandilles, Sanguette
Tip: Sit near the open fire for the tricandilles; the lunch formula is a serious value if you book ahead for noon on a weekday.
La Cape in Cenon, across the Garonne from Bordeaux's Bastide, is Nicolas Magie's bistronomic dining room with classic French luxury cuisine and a terrace.
Signature: Foie gras, Pigeon, Souffle
Tip: Order the souffle course for dessert; the tasting menu prices climb but the lunch formula stays under €50.
Le Chien de Pavlov in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre is the cozy bistronomic room on Rue de la Devise with antique furniture, Tiffany lights and a market-driven.
Signature: Daily market tasting menu, Seasonal small plates
Tip: Sunday brunch from 11:30 is the easiest walk-in; the kitchen rewards diners who order the surprise menu over a la carte.
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