Piatto Romano ★ 4.3
Why locals love it: Small-room Testaccio trattoria where the Cocco family cooks the four Roman pastas to the rulebook with zero menu twists.
Tip: Closed Wednesday all day. Book a week ahead; the dining room holds 30 covers.
History
The Carciofo Romanesco del Lazio holds an IGP protected designation; the variety is shorter and rounder than other artichokes and lacks the central choke. Carciofi alla romana, the slow-braised version, has been on Roman trattoria menus since at least the 19th century. The dish runs from February to May, alongside its Jewish cousin alla giudia in the Ghetto.
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 4 Romanesco artichokes (or large globe artichokes), stems intact
- 1 lemon, halved
- 1 large bunch fresh mentuccia (Roman wild mint) or 1 bunch fresh mint plus 1 sprig marjoram
- 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
- 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 150ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to finish
- 200ml dry white wine
- 300ml water
- Sea salt and black pepper
Method
- Fill a bowl with cold water and squeeze in the lemon halves. Drop the halves in too.
- Trim each artichoke: snap off the tough outer leaves until you reach the pale tender inner leaves. Peel the stem to the white core. Cut off the top 2cm of the artichoke. Open the leaves gently from the centre to expose the choke; scoop the choke out with a small spoon. Drop each prepared artichoke into the lemon water.
- Chop mentuccia (or mint and marjoram) finely with the parsley and garlic. Mix in a bowl with a generous pinch of salt and pepper.
- Drain the artichokes upside-down on a towel. Pack the herb mix into the cavity of each artichoke and between the leaves.
- Stand the artichokes stem-up in a heavy narrow pot so they fit snugly. Pour over the olive oil, wine and water; the liquid should come halfway up the artichokes.
- Cover tightly with a lid or a sheet of parchment pressed onto the surface plus a lid.
- Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then reduce to the lowest possible heat. Braise 35 to 45 minutes until a knife slides into the base without resistance.
- Lift the artichokes onto a serving dish stem-up. Reduce the braising liquid 3 minutes to a glossy emulsion, then spoon over.
- Serve at room temperature, never piping hot, finished with extra olive oil.
Tip from the editors. Mentuccia is the dish; mint alone is sweeter and grassier. If you cannot find mentuccia (Calamintha nepeta) at an Italian grocer, combine spearmint with a small sprig of marjoram or savory.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Where to eat carciofi alla romana
Carciofi alla romana in Rome
Matricianella ★ 4.3
Matricianella in Rome's Centro Storico runs the canonical Roman trattoria carte: amatriciana the dish that named the house, saltimbocca alla romana.
Signature: Bucatini all'amatriciana, Saltimbocca, Concia di zucchine
Order: Bucatini all'amatriciana and saltimbocca alla romana, with a quartino of house Frascati.
Tip: Closed Sunday all day. Book a week ahead for the courtyard terrace; the indoor room is calmer.
Da Cesare al Casaletto ★ 4.6
Why locals love it: Twenty minutes from Trastevere by tram 8, this Sunday-lunch trattoria stays off the tourist circuit while running the city's most-discussed fried cacio e pepe.
Tip: Book a week ahead for Sunday lunch. Tram 8 from Trastevere terminates 200m from the door; cab back is 12 euros.
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