History

The cannele has its origins in the 16th-century Convent of the Annonciades in Bordeaux, where the nuns used the egg whites discarded by Bordeaux winemakers (used to fine wines) and the leftover yolks were spun into pastries. The recipe with rum and vanilla emerged in the 18th century via the triangular trade through Bordeaux's port. The cannele was officially recognised as a Bordeaux specialty in 1985. Baillardran, La Toque Cuivree and Cassonade are the three modern Bordeaux producers.

Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 12Hands-on 30 minTotal 24 hrDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • 500ml whole milk
  • 50g unsalted butter
  • 1 vanilla pod, split and scraped
  • 250g caster sugar
  • 100g plain flour
  • 2 whole eggs
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 50ml dark rum
  • Pinch of salt
  • Beeswax or butter for moulds

Method

  1. Bring the milk, butter and vanilla pod to a low simmer, then remove from heat and let infuse 10 minutes.
  2. Whisk the sugar, flour, salt and eggs in a bowl until smooth. Slowly add the warm milk while whisking.
  3. Stir in the rum, cover and rest in the fridge for 24 hours (or up to 48 hours for best caramelisation).
  4. Preheat oven to 240C. Brush the copper canele moulds with melted beeswax or butter.
  5. Pour the chilled batter into the moulds, three-quarters full.
  6. Bake at 240C for 10 minutes, then drop the temperature to 180C and bake 50 to 60 minutes more.
  7. The cannele is done when the exterior is deep mahogany and the interior springs back. Unmould immediately and cool on a rack.

Tip from the editors. Beeswax-coated copper moulds give the best caramelisation; silicone moulds will give a pale crust. The 24-hour rest is non-negotiable.

Where to eat cannele de bordeaux

Cannele de Bordeaux in Bordeaux

Baillardran ★ 4.7

Bakerygolden-triangleMon-Sat 09:00-20:00, Sun 09:00-19:30Walk-in onlyCannele de Bordeaux

Baillardran in Bordeaux's Golden Triangle is the canele specialist on Cours de l'Intendance since 1988, with the city's most-quoted version.

Tip: Buy two sizes, the small and the regular; eat the regular the day of purchase and freeze the small for later.

Worth the queue: Cannele de Bordeaux

La Toque Cuivree ★ 4.3

Bakerygolden-triangleMon-Sun 09:00-19:30Walk-in onlyCannele de Bordeaux

La Toque Cuivree in Bordeaux is the Place Gambetta canele house with multiple boutiques across the city, the most enduring head-to-head competitor.

Tip: The minis are great for sharing; the gluten-free version is a serious effort and stocks early on Saturdays.

Worth the queue: Cannele de Bordeaux

Cassonade ★ 4.0

Bakerysaint-pierreMon-Sun 10:00-19:00Walk-in onlyCannele and pastries

Cassonade in Bordeaux's Saint-Pierre is the canele shop under the Grosse Cloche on Rue Saint-James, the third major canele house alongside Baillardran and La.

Tip: Open daily 10:00-19:00 at the Grosse Cloche; the chocolate variations are not traditional but worth trying once.

Worth the queue: Cannele de Bordeaux

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