Caldo Verde (Green Soup)
Photo: Mateus Hidalgo · CC BY-SA 2.5 br

History

Caldo verde originated in the Minho region and is the soup most associated with northern Portuguese domestic cooking. The combination of galega kale (a tough, dark-leafed variety grown in the Minho), potato and chourico was codified as a restaurant dish in Braga in the 20th century but has been made in farmhouse kitchens for at least three centuries. The Braga preparation uses more olive oil, more chourico and less water than the Lisbon version, producing a soup closer to a stew. Caldo Entornado near the cathedral is the benchmark address for visitors.

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Common allergens: Gluten

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 20 minTotal 50 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 800g floury potatoes, peeled and roughly chopped
  • 200g galega kale (or cavolo nero as substitute), ribs removed and very finely shredded
  • 200g chourico, sliced into thin coins
  • 2 litres water
  • 100ml extra virgin olive oil
  • 4 garlic cloves, peeled
  • Salt and black pepper

Method

  1. Bring potatoes, garlic and water to a boil in a large pot. Cook for 20 minutes until the potatoes are very soft.
  2. Remove the garlic and blend or pass through a mouli to a smooth, thick base. Return to the pot.
  3. Add the olive oil and season well. Bring back to a simmer.
  4. Stir in the shredded kale and chourico. Simmer 5 to 7 minutes until the kale is cooked but still bright green.
  5. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve with broa cornbread and a drizzle of raw olive oil.

Tip from the editors. The kale must be sliced very finely, almost like chiffonade, or it stays tough. Use a very sharp knife and stack the leaves before cutting across the grain.

Where to eat caldo verde (green soup)

Caldo Verde (Green Soup) in Braga

Caldo Entornado ★ 4.2

€ PortugueseCentro Historico

Near the cathedral, Caldo Entornado offers comforting Portuguese dishes without fuss: caldo verde, bacalhau and daily specials under €14 at lunch.

OrderCaldo verde and bacalhau a Braga with a glass of vinho verde for a complete local lunch under €14.

TipThe caldo verde here is the benchmark for the Braga approach: thicker and more pork-rich than the Lisbon version. Arrive at noon for the freshest pot.

Directions

Restaurante Tia Isabel ★ 4.4

€ PortugueseMaximinos

The popular Sunday restaurant of Braga locals: roast kid, stuffed bacalhau and papas de sarrabulho at honest prices away from the tourist centre.

OrderPapas de sarrabulho with bread and a vinho verde at the family table for under €13.

TipSunday lunch fills by 12:30; reserve by phone. Weekday lunch is more relaxed and the same full menu applies, often at slightly faster service.

Directions

Taberna do Migaitas ★ 4.3

€ PortugueseCentro Historico

A traditional Braga tavern next to the Sé cathedral with a rotating weekly menu of Minho standards: bacalhau preparations, arroz de pica no chão and honest.

OrderThe chef's daily suggestion at lunch, paired with house vinho verde for under €11.

TipClosed Sundays.

Directions

All Braga signature dishes →

Caldo Verde (Green Soup) in Lisbon

Solar dos Presuntos ★ 4.5

€€€ Portuguese SeafoodRestauradores

Solar dos Presuntos in Restauradores, Lisbon: a family seafood institution open since 1974, famous for cured ham, Minho cuisine and a celebrity wall.

OrderThe plate of presunto first, then arroz de marisco for two.

Directions Book

Casa do Alentejo ★ 4.2

€€ AlentejanoRestauradores

Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon's Restauradores: a 17th-century palace with a Moorish patio serving the bread soups, migas and pork of the Alentejo.

OrderAcorda alentejana, the bread-and-coriander soup, with a poached egg.

Directions

Cervejaria Trindade ★ 4.1

€€ BrewerySagres draught in a 19th-century beer hallChiado

Cervejaria Trindade in Chiado, Lisbon: Portugal's oldest beer hall, brewing on site since 1836, blue azulejos walls, Sagres draught and Trindade steaks.

Directions

All Lisbon signature dishes →

Caldo Verde (Green Soup) in Porto

O Buraco ★ 4.3

€€ Portuguese

O Buraco is a working-day tasca behind the Bolhao market since the early 1970s, serving veal pie and tripas a moda do Porto to a 12:30 local crowd.

Why locals goLong-running working-day tasca behind the Bolhao market, open since the early 1970s with veal pie and tripas a moda do Porto on the menu and a 12:30 local-only lunch crowd.

TipClosed Sunday, no dinner Saturday. Best dishes are gone by 14:00; arrive early.

Directions

Adega Sao Nicolau ★ 4.3

€€ Traditional PortugueseRibeira

Adega Sao Nicolau in Porto's Ribeira has been pouring red since the 1940s, serving polvo a lagareiro on a small Douro-facing terrace below the quay.

OrderPolvo a lagareiro: octopus baked with potatoes, garlic and a slug of olive oil.

TipLunch service from noon. The river-side terrace fills first; the inside room is cooler in August.

Directions

Casa Guedes ★ 4.4

€€ PortugueseUntil Sat until 22:00

Casa Guedes on Praca dos Poveiros in Porto runs Saturday hours to 22:00, with the sandes de pernil still going out to a queue of locals and late-night.

TrySandes de pernil

Directions

Casa Guedes Tradicional ★ 4.5

€ Portuguese (sandwiches)Baixa

Casa Guedes on Praca dos Poveiros in Porto has pulled roast pork leg into a soft fofo roll since 1987, with optional Serra da Estrela cheese melted on top.

OrderSandes de pernil com queijo da Serra, glass of vinho verde.

TipOpen daily, kitchen runs continuous service. A second site at 76 to 80 handles the overflow on Saturdays.

Directions

All Porto signature dishes →

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