History

Brudet (or brujet) is a working-fishermen's stew along the Adriatic coast, made from whatever the day's catch yielded. Each port runs a different version: Komiza on Vis claims the earliest recipe; the Split version sits between Komiza and Sibenik, with a fuller red-wine character. Konoba Fetivi and Konoba Hvaranin in Split's Veli Varos cook it as a Friday dish.

Common allergens: Fish, Shellfish

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 1 hr 15 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1.2kg mixed small Adriatic fish (scorpionfish, gurnard, mullet), cleaned and cut into 6cm chunks
  • 150ml extra virgin olive oil
  • 3 onions, finely chopped
  • 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 400g ripe tomatoes, chopped (or one tin)
  • 200ml red wine
  • 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 1 bay leaf, 1 sprig rosemary, flat-leaf parsley
  • Sea salt, black pepper
  • Polenta to serve (200g, simmered with salt and butter)

Method

  1. Season fish with salt. Heat olive oil in a wide heavy pan; soften onions until pale gold.
  2. Add garlic; cook 1 minute. Add tomato; cook to a chunky paste, 8 to 10 minutes.
  3. Add wine and vinegar; bubble for 2 minutes. Slip fish in a single layer; tuck in bay and rosemary.
  4. Add water to half-cover the fish. Simmer 25 to 35 minutes, never stirring (shake the pan instead).
  5. Adjust salt; scatter parsley. Serve over hot polenta with the cooking sauce spooned over.

Tip from the editors. The Dalmatian rule: never stir brudet, only shake the pan. Stirring breaks the fish.

Where to eat brudet

Brudet in Split

Konoba Fetivi ★ 4.8

Dalmatian€€veli-varosTue-Sun 12:00-23:00, Mon closed

Konoba Fetivi in Split's Veli Varos is the Bib Gourmand family konoba on Tomica Stine, cooking grilled Adriatic fish and pasticada to a daily Pazar buy.

Signature: Grilled Adriatic fish, Pasticada with gnocchi, Crni rizot

Order: Whole grilled white fish by weight with chard and potatoes.

Tip: Tue-Sun 15:00-23:30, closed Mondays; book ahead for the early dinner sitting and the best whole fish go by 21:00.

Konoba Hvaranin ★ 4.5

Dalmatian€€veli-varosMon-Sat 15:00-23:00, Sun closed

Konoba Hvaranin on Ban Mladenova in Split is a small-room family konoba, with the local press in the back and gregada as the kitchen's signature.

Why locals love it: A tucked-away Veli Varos konoba where Split's writers and journalists drink Plavac mali, with shelves of books from regulars and seating capped near 20.

Tip: Booking is sensible; the dinner sitting goes first.

Konoba Korta ★ 4.4

Dalmatian€€diocletians-palaceDaily 08:00-24:00

Konoba Korta sits on a small Split palace courtyard in front of the Church of St Philip Neri, serving Dalmatian seafood and meats under ancient stone walls.

Signature: Squid with barley, Cuttlefish broad-bean pasta, Brudet

Order: Squid with barley and broad beans, finished with new olive oil.

Tip: Open daily through midnight; the cloistered courtyard tables are the ones to book in summer and shoulder season.

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