Bigos
Photo: Alberto Racatumba from Spain / España · CC BY 2.0

History

Bigos has appeared in Polish kitchens since at least the 14th century, originally as a hunters' field stew made from whatever game and pickled cabbage the household had. Mickiewicz immortalised it in Pan Tadeusz. Every Gdańsk traditional kitchen, from Kubicki to Witómë, keeps a pot through the cold months.

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Warsaw

Guided tour · 3h 30m

Warsaw: Polish Food Tour

The Polish food tour is a great way to experience a must-try cuisine of this amazing country. A professional guide will teach you all there is to...

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Common allergens: Gluten

Make it at home

Yield 8Hands-on 40 minTotal 4 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 30g dried porcini mushrooms
  • 200ml hot water (to soak)
  • 800g sauerkraut, drained but not rinsed
  • 500g white cabbage, finely shredded
  • 500g pork shoulder, cut into 3cm pieces
  • 300g smoked Polish kielbasa, sliced thick
  • 200g smoked bacon, diced
  • 2 large onions, diced
  • 2 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 200g pitted prunes, halved
  • 2 tbsp tomato paste
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 tbsp whole allspice berries
  • 1 tbsp juniper berries, crushed
  • 1 tbsp caraway seeds
  • 1 tbsp dried marjoram
  • 200ml dry red wine
  • 500ml beef or pork stock
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Country bread, to serve

Method

  1. Soak the porcini in the hot water for 30 minutes. Lift out and chop; reserve the soaking liquid.
  2. Render the bacon in a heavy casserole over medium heat until the fat runs.
  3. Brown the pork shoulder in batches in the bacon fat until well coloured. Set aside.
  4. Cook the onions in the same pan for 8 minutes until softened. Add the garlic for 1 minute.
  5. Stir in the tomato paste, bay, allspice, juniper, caraway and marjoram. Cook 2 minutes.
  6. Return the pork and bacon. Add the sauerkraut, fresh cabbage, kielbasa, porcini, prunes, wine, stock and the strained mushroom soaking liquid.
  7. Cover and bring to a bare simmer. Cook on the lowest heat for 2 1/2 hours, stirring every 30 minutes to prevent catching.
  8. Uncover and simmer another 30 minutes to reduce the liquid; the bigos should be glossy and dark, not soupy.
  9. Cool, refrigerate overnight, and reheat gently the next day. The third day is even better.
  10. Serve in deep bowls with thick slices of country bread to mop up the sauce.

Tip from the editors. Bigos improves with reheating; cook it three days ahead and reheat each evening. Sauerkraut sourness is the backbone; do not rinse it.

Where to eat bigos

Bigos in Gdańsk

Restauracja Kubicki ★ 4.3

$$ PolishMain Town

Restauracja Kubicki in Gdańsk has run since 1918 on Wartka Street, the oldest surviving room in town. Book the window tables for the Motława view at sunset.

OrderThe eisbein, the kitchen's century-old never-altered dish.

TipBook the window tables for the Motława view at sunset Walk-ins usually OK.

Witómë ★ 4.3

$$ Modern Polish

Witómë on Piwna behind St Mary's is Gdańsk's centrally-located Kashubian dining room plating the regional fish soup and a 07:30 breakfast counter.

Why locals goThe only centrally-located Kashubian dining room left, on Piwna behind St Mary's; visitors hunting regional fish soup walk past the Piwna door for the louder Długa rooms.

TipOrder the Kashubian fish soup; the breakfast counter opens 07:30 and is the calmest service.

Goldwasser ★ 4.1

$$ PolishMain Town

Goldwasser in Gdańsk sits in a 15th-century tenement on Długie Pobrzeże, named for the liqueur first distilled in the city in 1598. Located in Main Town.

OrderDuck with red cabbage, with a glass of Original Danziger Goldwasser as the closer.

TipThe Motława-side terrace from May to September is the best seat in the room.

Restauracja Filharmonia ★ 4.2

$$ Modern Polish

Restauracja Filharmonia is a modern polish room in Gdansk. Cross from Długie Pobrzeże; the dining-room view back to the Old Town is the trip.

Why locals goOn Ołowianka Island opposite the Old Town, reached by a footbridge most visitors skip; the most committed Kashubian kitchen in the centre.

TipCross from Długie Pobrzeże; the dining-room view back to the Old Town is the trip.

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Bigos in Kraków

Bar Mleczny Pod Temidą ★ 4.5

$ Modern Polish

Bar Mleczny Pod Temidą on Kraków's Grodzka is the city's most editorial surviving milk bar: full meal, soup-main-kompot, all in under 25 zl since the 1960s.

TryFull Polish meal under 25 zl

TipBring cash; the card terminal is unreliable. Tables share with strangers.

Polakowski ★ 3.9

$ Modern Polish

Polakowski in Kraków's Kazimierz is the all-day Polish canteen for the Old Synagogue end: pierogi, bigos, schabowy, gołąbki, served counter-style 10:00.

TryPolish canteen plate under 30 zl

TipMiodowa 39 in Kazimierz is the flagship; the M1 mall branch has closed but Kazimierz remains open daily.

Milkbar Tomasza ★ 4.4

$$ 20-30 zlBrunchPolish breakfast

Milkbar Tomasza on Kraków's Świętego Tomasza updates the milk-bar form: same prices and naleśniki, but table service and a younger crowd. Booking recommended.

OrderNaleśniki with cottage cheese and strawberry jam.

TipClosed Monday. The brunch plate at 25 zl is the steal; sit-down service, not a counter.

Wesele ★ 4.1

$$$ Traditional PolishStare Miasto

Wesele in Kraków is the editorial pick for traditional Polish on the Rynek Główny: pierogi, roast duck, żurek, with a terrace pointed at the Cloth Hall.

OrderThe mixed pierogi plate and żurek soured-rye soup served in a bread bowl.

TipReservation recommended for evenings; the cellar room is quieter than the terrace in summer.

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Bigos in Warsaw

Restauracja Polka ★ 4.2

$$$ Traditional PolishStare Miasto

Magda Gessler's Polka in Warsaw is the Old Town home-cooking room: seven flower-painted dining rooms in a Renaissance tenement, heavy curtains.

OrderThe bigos plate, hand-rolled pierogi, and a Polmos vodka shot.

TipTouristy but earns it; ask for the back room, not the streetside seats.

Bar Mleczny Pod Barbakanem ★ 4.3

$ Modern Polish

Bar Mleczny Pod Barbakanem sits just past the Old Town Barbican in Warsaw with vintage decor, lunch-canteen prices and the kotlet schabowy plate for less.

TryZurek, bigos, kotlet schabowy

Lokal Vegan Bistro ★ 4.3

$$ Vegan PolishSrodmiescie

Lokal Vegan Bistro on Krucza in Warsaw, run by the Margines cooperative since 2015, rebuilds the Polish home-cooking canon without any meat or dairy.

OrderThe vegan pierogi ruskie and a bowl of mushroom-and-barley krupnik.

TipClosed Mondays. Tue-Sat 12:00-21:00, Sunday 12:00-19:00. Cash and card.

Gosciniec Polskie Pierogi ★ 4.0

$$ PierogarniaStare Miasto

Gosciniec Polskie Pierogi in Warsaw plays the modernised-pierogarnia card with four central locations: Podwale, Krakowskie Przedmiescie, Nowy Swiat and Piwna.

OrderThe wild-boar pierogi and a half-litre of cherry-infused vodka.

TipThe Podwale branch has the biggest dining room and the easiest weekday lunch booking.

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