Japanese sushi$$$downtown-la
Sugarfish on 7th Street, downtown Los Angeles, applies the late Kazunori Nozawa Trust-Me set menu format to a casual sit-down room since 2012.
Signature: Trust Me set, Toro hand roll
Order: The Trust Me set: tuna sashimi, salmon and yellowtail nigiri, toro hand roll.
Tip: The Trust Me Lite is the better-value set for one; rice is warm, vinegar pronounced, fish room temperature.
Japanese sushi$$$$sherman-oaks
Sushi Note on Ventura Boulevard, Sherman Oaks, pairs traditional edomae sushi with a 90-deep natural-wine list, a Valley counter that books two weeks ahead.
Signature: Edomae nigiri omakase, Natural-wine pairing
Order: Chef-selection omakase with a pour of grower Champagne from the deep wine list.
Tip: The 90-bottle natural-wine list is the real reason to choose Sushi Note over its peers; ask the server for guidance.
Japanese sushi$$$$beverly-grove
Sushi Tama on Robertson Boulevard, Beverly Grove, is Chef Hideyuki Yoshimoto's Tsukiji-trained omakase room serving fish flown in from Japan three times a week.
Signature: Omakase nigiri, Toyosu hirame
Order: The omakase with hirame, kinmedai, uni and toro flown in from Toyosu market three times a week.
Tip: Chef Yoshimoto trained at Tsukiji; the omakase is shorter than the chef-counter rivals but the fish is unmatched.